The Chocolate Rose: In the Sweet Spot

By / Photography By & | April 17, 2019
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Vanessa Benoit, owner and baker at The Chocolate Rose, installs a dessert table for an event. Photo courtesy The Chocolate Rose.

Vanessa Benoit deftly twirls a pastry nail with her left hand as her right hand squeezes a steady stream of pink Italian buttercream from a piping bag onto its surface. She forms a perfect rosette with a few fluid motions. I inwardly groan as I realize we will be trying to recreate the process and once again my klutziness will be front and center. As someone who has a tough time walking and chewing gum, coupled with dominant left-handedness, this class, the Art of the Cake, has been anything but a cakewalk for me. However, I am surprised at how much I’m enjoying tackling each challenge and how accomplished it’s making me feel. Maybe it’s the unflustered demeanor and patience that Vanessa Benoit, owner and baker at the Chocolate Rose, brings to the table.

She has already demonstrated and led the five of us (including three lefties!) through the varying stages of assembling the perfect cake: leveling, slicing, filling and frosting. Benoit has broken down each of these tasks into more manageable steps with plenty of handson guidance. Along the way, her repertoire is sprinkled with personal tips she has garnered throughout her career as a pastry chef. “It’s easier to work with an eight-inch cake because it has some weight to work with,” Benoit explains. “There is a lot less slipping and sliding around than if you use a smaller version, and therefore it’s better suited for practicing when you are starting out.” By the end of our class, we all have a beautiful, dare I say a “professional,” looking cake of our own to share with family and friends. Feeling triumphant, I am already debating which class I should take next: citrus desserts, pies, or perhaps yeast breads? After today, I feel ready to conquer them all! Benoit relishes the confidence she instills in her students and it is a key reason she continues to teach despite an already daunting schedule. She admits that the positive feedback helps fuel her adrenaline.

Benoit’s foray into “caking” was initially through a lot of self-teaching and trial and error. “I was learning before the onset of all these online videos and I’ve never been much of a techie anyway. I mainly learned and mastered techniques the old-fashioned way, by reading books,” Benoit recalls. She would bestow many of her experimental bakes on her nurse mother who in turn would share the treats with her hospital coworkers in Boston. Before long, Benoit started getting orders, and ultimately, Cakes by Vanessa was launched. Realizing her side gig was something she yearned to turn into a culinary career, Benoit decided it was now time to invest in a formal education. She enrolled in Cape Cod Community College for hotel and restaurant management. Her high GPA garnered her a $40,000 scholarship to attend Johnson & Wales University. On her last day of finals at Johnson & Wales, she gave birth to her youngest daughter. Benoit jokes that at least she waited for the test to be over. She graduated, again with a near perfect GPA, with a bachelor’s degree in food service entrepreneurship and an associate degree in baking and pastry arts.

After graduating, Benoit accepted a position as pastry chef at the Regatta of Cotuit. During her tenure there, she mastered the ins and outs of the back-of-the-house duties in a fast-paced restaurant environment; lessons that Benoit still carry with her today. “I did everything there. Pastry was always predominantly my thing, but I worked the line, too.” Benoit adds, “before I left, I was running the kitchen and all that involved, like doing the ordering and I felt I kind of got lost. I had strayed away from doing the things I really wanted to do, like creating beautiful, custom wedding cakes, and I missed that. I gained a lot of valuable experience that made me the pastry chef I am today and I learned to handle so many different situations. I am forever grateful for all my time there and the life skills it taught me.”

After four-plus years, Benoit decided it was time to move on and refocus on her passion. Initially, she used the kitchen at the Regatta, with whom she maintained a good relationship, to launch her bakery, The Chocolate Rose. Eventually, with support from husband Jason, Benoit did a “build in” at their Sandwich home, essentially creating a licensed commercial baking space from which to run her own business. For the next seven years, Benoit, with help from family, “worked her tail off” growing her business and establishing a reputation with her quality artistic confections. In 2018, Benoit came to another crossroads in her career. Her growth was such that she was spending precious time commuting between her home bakery, deliveries and office space she rented. The search for space to unify her entire operation so she could grow a support team (she was basically a one-woman show), as well as gain more ties within the community, led to an available building in Mashpee where The Chocolate Rose is now headquartered. The naked, bright and airy space won her over, and Benoit was able to transform it to her exact specifications.

Benoit has her fingers in many pots but has been primarily known as a baker of delicious and elegant custom cakes. She has earned a coveted spot on many of the preferred vendors lists on Cape and off. Her social media sites showcase countless images of her breathtaking creations and testimonials from satisfied customers. “I am a pastry chef,” declares Benoit. “To me it’s all about a complete dessert. I don’t want to eat hunks of cake with just layers of frosting sandwiched in between.”

She is firm believer in fillings of all kinds: fruits, creams, mousses, curds and ganache. Her cake flavors include mudslide (dark chocolate cake soaked with Kahlua, filled with chocolate ganache and Bailey’s cream), bananas foster (vanilla cake, caramel pecan rum sauce, pastry cream, fresh bananas) and lemon (lemon cake, lemon curd filling and choice of raspberry, blueberry or blackberry compote). Thirty-two mouth-watering varieties comprise the impressive list of flavor choices at The Chocolate Rose. Benoit realizes life would be easier if she pared down her selections, but she shrugs and says, “They all sell, plus I thrive on variety. I will probably add before I subtract,” she laughs. “I love playing with flavor combinations.”

Photo 1: Vanessa Benoit demonstrates how to smooth the icing on a cake before decorating and how to create designs using buttercream.
Photo 3: A student in an Art of the Cake class tries her hand at forming rosettes.
Photo 4: Cleaning up as you go is an important lesson learned in the class.

Fondant-covered cakes are always an option, but Benoit favors the Italian buttercream that is this bakery’s go-to homemade frosting. “We start by making a basic meringue. We whip eggs whites, hot sugar syrup is poured into that and then whole butter and vanilla are added. The buttercream is exceptionally light, not overly sweet and gives a smooth consistency, making it easy to work with. The Italian buttercream also provides a nice barrier to stop a cake’s fillings from seeping out,” states Benoit.

“We also use syrups on our cakes, it makes them extra wonderful, gives extra deliciousness. We use lots of liqueurs. For instance, we make a cake that we soak the layers with Chambord (French raspberry liqueur). We also add liqueurs to syrups. It all depends on the flavor profile you are going for. They put lots of extra flavor and moisture into the cake.”

Gluten free cakes are not second-class citizens at The Chocolate Rose. “Our gluten free cakes are delicious,” asserts Benoit. “It’s all in what you have and how you use it. We pack our cakes with so much flavor with our fillings that you do not notice you are not eating a cake made with standard baking flour. Brides and grooms will sometimes come in for a tasting and will have maybe planned on doing a smaller version of the wedding cake gluten free for cutting because one of them has a gluten allergy. Often what happens is after they sample our gluten free option, they decide to do an entire cake that way because it’s so yummy and they know their guests will not taste the difference. We offer gluten free versions of all our cake flavors.”

The Chocolate Rose is not just about artistic custom cakes, though. They also offer full dessert bars (including linens, stands and props), a catered espresso bar and edible favors for a range of functions including weddings, showers and corporate events. It is one of the many reasons Benoit needed to expand her space and hire employees.

The move to Mashpee in May 2018 also allowed Benoit to add a retail storefront to her operation, something her mother had been urging her to do for years. Benoit knew she did not want people to gaze in her windows and not be able to buy what was being baked inside. The bonus of adding retail has been connecting with people in the local community. Since opening, she has a gained a new audience and seen an increasing stream of clients finding their way to her door lured by an ever rotating array of fresh baked goodies, including breakfast items like quiche, baked-stuffed French toast, croissants and danish.

She has been toying with adding bread to her line up but is unsure if walk-in business would offset the added labor. For now the shelves at The Chocolate Rose display a changing landscape of tempting desserts: cheesecakes, cannoli, tartlets, tiramisu, eclairs and cupcakes are just a few of the treats offered for individual sale. Benoit says, “I need to mix things up and don’t want to do the same things each and every day. It keeps me from being bored.” Which is why any given trip to The Chocolate Rose often results in the discovery of a delectable new flavor or a different selection of confections than before.

Extra square footage has also provided Benoit the elbow room to introduce baking classes for small groups during the quieter months (January-April). It is something she realized she had a knack for back in the Regatta days, and she continues to receive personal fulfillment sharing her culinary skills with others. The changing dynamic of each group keeps things fresh and enjoyable for Benoit.

Since last May, husband Jason has come on board full time and handles a lot of the behind the scenes aspects which includes maintaining The Chocolate Rose social media sites. Kate and Ro assist Benoit with baking duties. Heading into summer, Benoit is bracing for the seasonal onslaught. Last summer, eighteen-hour days were not outside her norm. Since cloning herself is not an option, Benoit is considering boosting her staff further, but admits, “It’s hard to relinquish control even a little bit because, bottom line, my name is behind everything and my standards must be maintained. I’m very particular. We have a specific quality product that has to be offered here at all times. I believe that’s what sets The Chocolate Rose apart.”

The Chocolate Rose 628 Main Street, Mashpee 774-238-7020 / chocolaterosecakes.com

Photo 1: Teal Ruffles Cake, Boston Cream Tortes, French Macaron Tower.
Photo 3: A trio of Benoit’s creations
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