Bootstrap Farm Club: The Password is...Clean

By / Photography By | May 15, 2020
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There’s no missing what’s offered at Bootstrap on Route 28A in Cataumet.

In Hollywood vernacular, the “inciting incident” is the event, however great or small, that kicks off the story and sends our hero on the adventure. Business opportunities can be born in much the same way. The idea is there, marinating in the mind of the would-be entrepreneur for months or even years, a powder keg silently awaiting the lit match that kicks off the “leap.” An unplanned termination of employment is one such common incident, but the birth of Bootstrap Farm Club in Cataumet had a more dire motivation. A frightening health scare for one person has led to a cleaner way of eating for many.

Bootstrap Farm Club is just that: a club. Although open to the public Thursday and Friday afternoons and Saturday mornings, Bootstrap Farm Club’s members do come first. Members get first choice to purchase the certified organic or sustainably grown produce and meats at the store (or perhaps, clubhouse) located at the corner of Scraggy Neck Road Ext. and Route 28A in Cataumet. Members can place their orders online after perusing the weekly offerings on the Bootstrap Farm Club’s website. The orders are then picked up at the store. Some members prefer to shop the old-fashioned way and inspect the merchandise for themselves. They can do this whenever they want. With membership comes access to the store 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The yearly dues for this premium service…$0.

Seattle area native Susan Sigel Goldsmith moved to Martha’s Vineyard in 1998. After 18 years of island life, she relocated to the village of Cataumet in Bourne in 2016. Her first thought as she got a lay of the land? “Where are all my farms?” Having lived on an island which has 40 farms within its 100 square miles, her new neighborhood seemed a bit lacking. On the Vineyard, she had a number of farms, small markets and roadside stands to choose from within a few miles of her house. “On the island, I was almost always eating local all year round,” Susan recalls.

Running a media and marketing firm and dealing with events and ticketing, one would think that Goldsmith was out in the community a great deal. Much of the time, however, Susan was locked to her computer and longed for the ability to interact with other like-minded people when it came to caring about how food is grown or raised. It is here where the idea for Bootstrap Farm Club began to germinate. Surviving a grave illness gave Susan the kick start that she needed. It was time to launch Bootstrap Farm Club and see if it would soar. “I was really doing it as a proof of concept,” she claims. Generally, proofs-of-concept are more theoretical in nature; a simple test to see if an idea is viable. You know, before the large outlay of cash. A year into this “exercise,” it seems to have passed (and continues to pass) with flying colors. The club’s name has a multi-level meaning, as a nod to her own life’s twists and turns as well as the farm she once owned on the Vineyard where children came to learn horseback riding.

To be certified organic, farmers must abide by the regulations set forth by the United States Department of Agriculture and be able to prove that their practices do not include the use of such prohibited substances like synthetic fertilizers, insecticides, herbicides and fungicides for at least the previous three years. They also must show that genetically modified organisms (GMOs) have not been grown on the property during the same time frame. The concern is that synthetic chemicals remain in soils and perennial plants for years after their last application. Farms must allow for testing annually to maintain their certified organic status. “Sustainable Growers” follow the same practices. They simply don’t have the certification. Both follow a much more stringent set of guidelines than the farms following Good Agricultural Practices (GAPs). The certified organic or sustainably grown meat and produce which Bootstrap Farm Club offers its members comes from farms within 100 miles of the store. Susan has found that club members’ main impetus is the products’ organic growth, even more than the location of the farm supplying them. They are willing to travel for it as well, with some coming from as far away as Plymouth and Hingham.

The club is stocked with a wide variety of organic products. Besides the produce, the freezer is bursting with beef, pork, chicken, lamb and even a few prepared food items. The produce comes from Langwater Farms in North Easton, Web Of Life Farm in Plymouth and Tuckaway Farm in Harwich, among others. Beef and eggs — of which she sells 30-35 dozen a week — are supplied by J.H. Beaulieu Livestock and Produce Farm in Fairhaven. Susan is always on the lookout for more suppliers. “I’m open to working with people producing clean prepared foods,” she states.

It has been a learning experience for all involved, particularly Susan. After a soft open a year ago for which she sent out a small postcard mailing to area residents, ordering became the first challenge to overcome. Dialing in the correct amount to order every week for a new and growing store took some time. Yet, when there was an overage, Goldsmith simply put together small packages to give away to area businesses for further publicity, making herself some proverbial lemonade out of the abundance of lemons she had remaining.

Photo 1: Susan Sigel Goldsmith welcomes members and the public to the club.
Photo 2: Goldsmith accepts an order of meat from Farmer Joe Beaulieu.

Even a mis-order can work to everyone’s advantage. Once, Goldsmith thought she was ordering Brussels sprouts when in fact she had ordered Brussels sprout Tops, the green leaves that grow on the top of the stalk. She did some research and sent out an email to the membership about their availability and how to prepare them, and people loved them. “And they were never offered again from the supplier,” she laughs. Having the contact information of her membership, Susan can reach out to alert them to unique sales, like the Brussels sprout tops, or a flash sale to move an overabundance of a particular item or two.

The mutual learning continues between Susan and club members. Once a month, Susan hosts a gathering at her farmhouse around the corner from the store, leading the group in cooking demonstrations on foods that may be unfamiliar. Trying new vegetables and cuts of meat opens people up to preparing new food items at home, all of which they can pick up at the Bootstrap Farm Club. “I try to bring in things people are unfamiliar with,” she points out. “Things like ruby daikon, kohlrabi and hakurei.”

Members are educating Susan all the time when they reach out for specialty organic items that they just can’t seem to find on their own. Susan jumps on the case and tracks them down even if she has no idea what the product is. Take the case of leaf lard. A member asked if Susan could bring some into the store. She hadn’t ever heard of it, but set out to learn about and locate it. Leaf lard, according to Goldsmith, is the highest-grade cooking lard and is prized for its ability to make the flakiest pie crusts. “Now, we carry certified organic leaf lard,” she chuckles.

Requiring membership in the club is a way to control the size of the clientele and, therefore, ensure a premium level of service to those who are members. “I’d rather serve fewer people really well,” Susan beams. With its quaint farmer’s porch and five-foot-tall tin rooster standing sentinel, Bootstrap Farm Club does have the feel of a roadside farm stand even if Susan is going for an even more intimate feel. “I want people to think of this as their pantry,” she claims. Don’t worry, you don’t need to remember the secret knock, password or handshake to gain access to the store. Members let themselves in using the front door code, collect their shopping items and cash themselves out digitally with the computer “cash register” positioned just inside the front door. The honor system with which farm stands have long operated is backed-up, in this case, by a security camera system. It’s as if she is taking the CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) concept to the next level. Signing up for a CSA with a local farm, subscribers normally pre-pay the season, stop by the farm once a week, and receive their weekly allotment of produce assembled by the farmer. Here, members have the option to pick out their own items. “I wanted people to be able to choose for themselves,” Susan explains.

Like the food that Bootstrap Farm Club offers, the club is growing organically. Not wanting to grow too big or too fast, the club continues to top itself in business as the months tick by and awareness of this specialty shop spreads. “January was our busiest month!” Goldsmith exclaims. “It was bigger than July and it was bigger than Thanksgiving when we brought in organic turkeys!”

Goldsmith acknowledges that location plays a large role in the success of the club, and it might not work everywhere. The site of Bootstrap Farm Club was selected due to a dearth of large grocery options in the immediate area, but also an area that is expanding with ever more food choices. “Now, with Jen at North Falmouth Cheese Shop, Epic Oyster, the new owners of the West Falmouth Market, Somerset Creamery next door and us, we’re becoming quite the little culinary row,” she proudly points out as she ticks off some of the more recent additions to the West/North Falmouth and Cataumet areas around her on or just off Route 28A.

A club where the yearly membership costs nothing. A club where you have access 24/7 to your own “pantry” of certified organic meats and produce. Bootstrap Farm Club’s members number in the hundreds, but there is a limit. Goldsmith applies a cap to the membership rolls to ensure the quality of service. After all, with membership to Bootstrap Farm Club comes privileges. Namely, access to and enjoying the cleanest food possible, and cleaner eating will go a long way in helping you feel better as you pull yourself up by your own Bootstrap Farm Club.

Bootstrap Farm Club
One Scraggy Neck Road Ext. at Route 28A, Cataumet
508-292-4080 / BootstrapFarm.com

Photo 1: Farm fresh eggs are a top seller.
Photo 2: Some of the ever-changing bounty available.
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