The West End
Through the Pass:
Beloved venues can fall victim to the ravages of time, and can be left to wither or become lost under the residue of past renovations. It takes the eye of an artist to see the potential where others see only the blight. When local entrepreneur and artist Jen Villa’s creative eye was turned to a gone-but-not-forgotten gem of the local dining scene, The Paddock, she transformed the sentimental favorite to open the doors to The West End. With a few years’ time and the addition of her husband Blane Toedt, the couple are hitting their stride with the establishment, which may have the look and feel of the 1940s, but its menu of new American cuisine is exciting and anything but vintage.
“I came to the Cape with two business plans,” Villa explains. “One for an art gallery, and one for a restaurant.” Villa made good on the former plan with the opening of The Little Beach Gallery in 2009. The self-described “serial entrepreneur” went on to help create Love Live Local, an organization that strives to promote the importance of shopping local and giving artisans a means to display and sell their creations through Love Live Local’s multiple events each year, and also through a local guide, retail location, and online shopping platform. Villa also established The Local Juice with registered dietician Nicole Cormier. The company offers cold pressed juices, smoothies, soups and much more.
It wasn’t until 2016 that Jen approached friend and Hyannis restauranteur David Noble of Embargo who had been looking for an additional project to tackle. She shared with him her ideas of the type of restaurant she wanted to open, and he suggested they meet at 22 Scudder Avenue in Hyannis. “I had been to this speakeasy in Alexandria Virginia, and I loved it,” she remembers. “I told him he needs to open a speakeasy. I’ll take care of the design and marketing, and we’re going to crush it.” Historically, speakeasies were not big on promotion – lighting and signs announcing their location were never good for the long-term health of the business. The challenges of getting patrons into a restaurant is hard enough these days even with great signage, and the pair quickly realized that plans would need to change. Upon first look at what was then a shuttered interim establishment on the west end rotary in Hyannis, Jen saw the potential. “Once I walked in and saw the décor,” she recalls. “There was a lot that was messed up, but there was amazing detail. I thought, ’This could be something extraordinary.’”
The undertaking began with the help of her mother, Phyllis. The two set about stripping away the alterations that had been made and getting to the bones of the 100-year-old building. New wallpaper, painting, light fixtures and a beautiful herringbone tile floor in the bar were expertly chosen to blend and enhance the existing beauty of the space. The original ornate winged angel sconces, the etched glass partitions in the main dining room, and rich lustrous detailed woodwork all remain to add to the sense of timelessness. Completing the scene is a soundtrack of jazz masters that will have you asking not, “Where am I?” but “When am I?” The six-month project wrapped up in time for The West End to open for the Fourth of July in 2017.
The distinctive destination was a hit from the start. Events in the Garden Room, live music in the parlor and an opening menu crafted by chef Toby Hill had eager guests flowing through the doors. As The West End re-opened in the spring of 2018, Noble had stepped back and Villa took the reins on her own to guide the establishment as it transitioned to a year-round eatery.
Meanwhile at Willowbend Country Club in Mashpee, Blane Toedt was working as the food and beverage director for the entire complex. He had his eye on all of the events, both public and private, that took place on the grounds every year. It was leading up to one of these events (the first annual Dancing With The Docs fundraiser for Cape Wellness Collaborative) when the two met. “So, juice girl here comes storming in with growler bottles of Local Juice,” Blane says with a nod. Jen laughs, “I said something romantic like, ‘Hey you! You work here? Where’s your walk-in cooler?’”
It wasn’t until 2019 that the couple reconnected with one another for good. Throughout that year, Blane became a very active consultant for Jen. Having been in the restaurant business since he was 14 years old, Toedt offered his experience in restaurant finances – from food and supply ordering to managing the other day-to-day operational costs – which Villa happily accepted. The two formed an exit strategy for Blane from Willowbend, and he came on board full-time at The West End in January of 2020. Shortly thereafter, the world stopped, and Jen felt terrible. “We were watching Governor Baker make the announcement of the shutdown, and I’m crying, ‘I’m so sorry I’ve ruined your life!’”
For The West End, the pandemic forced Villa and Toedt to take the familiar steps of “to-go only” followed by tenting a portion of the parking lot to expand seating capacity that many restaurants made. Lost to The West End, however, were the large crowds that would gather multiple nights a week before and after concerts at the neighboring Cape Cod Melody Tent. Gone was the quantity of guests. This, in turn, allowed The West End to re-double their efforts on the quality of the experience for their clientele. “The pandemic gave us regulars,” Blane points out. It has gone beyond merely recognizing familiar faces, as Jen explains, “We know a lot of these people, and we know their backstories.”
Not knowing what emotional weight guests are carrying when they walk through the front door is a point that Toedt discusses often with the staff. “I go deep with them on this,” he says. “We don’t know what they’re going through, so what can we do to make it the best night of their lives?” Tear-filled thank yous for the efforts the staff of The West End made for special occasions during the past dark days are not uncommon, and the gratitude for those who frequent The West End ensures the heartfelt thanks flow in both directions.
Sights and sounds can set the scene for a dining experience, but the aromas and flavors are what truly make an evening to remember. Chris O’Brien crafts both the vintage and the contemporary cocktails behind the bar. The prohibition era Bee’s Knees is a simple yet refreshing blend of gin, lemon and honey. For a completely unique spin on a classic, look no further than the West End G&T. The Empress gin used is a blend of botanicals as well as butterfly pea blossom which gives the gin its signature indigo color. The addition of lime juice lightens the hue of The West End G&T to a vibrant shade of lilac. Whether in the dining room, the parlor, the garden room or at the bar itself, O’Brien’s elixirs help loosen the knots of any burden one might have carried through the front doors.
Another silver lining to this otherwise dreadful past year was the arrival of chef William Yundt. Yundt came straight from the Coje Restaurant Group in Boston whose properties include some of the hottest pre-pandemic locations around, like Yvonne’s, Mariel and Ruka, among others. One item not to be missed that Yundt brought to the West End is the kimchi fried rice. The kimchi and baby bok choy fried rice is a side dish that could take a starring turn all on its own, yet is the perfect accompaniment to the pan-seared salmon. A spicier version of the traditional Korean dish of fermented vegetables is the only condiment one needs for the quarter-pound hot dog on the menu.
Therein lies the beauty of this assembled list. The menu has been expertly curated to feature some of the most interesting blends of flavors to be found, coupled with familiar items looked at in a new way. It’s deftly done so without creating a list of choices pages long, which can lead to “analysis paralysis” where everything seems to blur together. The salmon, the filet mignon and the ancient vegan grain bowl are alongside the hot dog, the Bolognese and country-style meatloaf. It covers all bases. It tempts all tastes.
This is assuming you can get past the more than a dozen starters, which also have a range from the familiar to the unique. Top of the list, quite literally, are the tater tots. The name suggests simplicity, but the addition of freshly-grated Parmesan cheese, fresh herbs and truffle make it so much more. The process of cooking the potato sous vide for an hour, pressing it through a ricer, chilling it and scooping it into molds for a bath in hot oil prove that these are very different from those mushy, bland versions we waited in line for in grade school. Another example are the potato chips. The house-made, wafer-thin chips are paired with a smoked cheddar fondue that’ll make it a challenge to save room for anything else. As you tear yourself away from the chips before you resort to licking the bowl of fondue, the torched salmon crudo is a revelation that must be experienced. Dressed with pickled chili peppers, a tapenade aioli and lemon vinaigrette, the salmon is a mouthful of surprisingly subtle yet complex flavors while being light enough to ensure you have the ability to enjoy many more offerings.
While some familiar items appear on the brunch menu, Sunday is no day of rest where the creativity of selections is concerned. The truffle tots are back but are joined as one of the starters by the sweet and delicate apple cider donuts. These fluffy little orbs are drizzled with vanilla glaze and a dusting of powdered sugar and will lead you to a difficult decision: Enjoy them as an opening to prime the taste buds, or relish them as a closing sweet to savor? The assortment of Benedicts covers the familiar classic with Serrano ham, to the wildly distinctive oyster mushroom where the fungi replace the meat. And, the addition of whipped lemon cream, chives and garlic make for an inventive (and appealing) alternative that won’t disappoint. All Benedicts sit atop a lightly grilled Portuguese muffin that makes for a more delicate chew than its English relative. The varied offerings come in a scope of sizes for all appetites. Feeling a little peckish? Something from the list of starters accompanied by a salad might tide you over for the day. Looking to break your fast in a more Homeric fashion? Dig into the Chef ’s Breakfast of a four-ounce filet mignon, applewood-smoked bacon, three fried eggs, steak cut potatoes, garbanzo baked beans and brown buttered toast. A nap is not included but perhaps recommended. The elegantly tufted leather upholstery throughout much of The West End is more than plush enough to offer a comfortable place to lay your head. If you weren’t in public, that is.
The seasonal menu features many items from local purveyors like Guaranteed Fresh Produce and Cape Fish & Lobster. Augmenting their vegetable orders, The West End installed raised bed gardens with the help of Edible Landscapes to grow their own herbs, tomatoes, swiss chard and more. The back of the house staff expertly prepares the cuisine in an elegant fashion. It is the front of the house servers who add a level of pleasant style and grace which perfects the experience. “We’ve been so lucky with our staff,” Blane smiles. “They take such pride in their craft.” Servers such as Danail Ivanov engage their guests as if they’re old friends (which they can quickly become). There’s also an “all hands-on deck” teamwork mentality within the ranks from the top down. Blane can often be found standing watch in the kitchen, waiting to expedite the next order that comes through the pass. The servers are anything but territorial. A table of guests has just begun to enjoy a lovely bottle of the Fonterutoli Badiola Super Tuscan from the very approachable wine list as their filet mignon entrées are ready to be served. Other servers, assistant general manager/ events manager Meaghann Kenney, and even Jen or Blane will deliver the dishes as soon as they’re up so not a moment of enjoyment is missed by their guests.
The West End is a special mélange of vintage look with a hip new feel and well-curated menus. Standing at the helm is a couple who have found their way to each other and developed the recipe for a truly memorable dining experience. After prevailing through the most challenging year imaginable, they seemed to have hit a Max Roach-like groove. And like some of his legendary drum solos, this is one that will not only sustain but gain momentum for some time to come.
The West End
20 Scudder Avenue, Hyannis
508-775-7677
westendhyannis.com
