Vers
A sweet fragrance wafts close by as our server approaches the table holding aloft the first course. A beet-juice-infused tapioca crisp perches atop a mound of bright salmon tartare; underneath, a platter of shaved ice anchors a smoking juniper branch. Senses on full alert, we settle in for what promises to be a memorable meal…
Edible Cape Cod first visited Vers in its fledging days back in Chatham in 2013 and knew then that Jonathan Haffmans had created something special. Six years later, Vers has undergone some major changes while staying true to its mission of using the freshest seasonally available ingredients and showcasing them using exciting flavor combinations. In 2016, the Haffmans, Jonathan and his partner/wife Karen, made the jump from Chatham to Orleans, reopening Vers in an inviting bungalow at 15 Cove Road. The change was an opportunity to expand their clientele and allowed them to bring on board a co-executive chef, Jeremiah Reardon, who shares with the Haffmans the same enthusiasm for producing plates that are innovative yet approachable. The trio, now in the midst of their third season working together, feels that this is their time and that the pieces they have been carefully assembling are now coming together.
“This should be the year that we really take off and run,” states Reardon. “When we initially came into Orleans I think the perception of Vers was that we were really high end and that’s something we are slowly chipping away at. We want to do stuff that people haven’t seen before but we want them to be excited about it, not fearful about it. We want everyone to come in and see what we have to offer.”
Despite very different backgrounds, both chefs trained in classic French culinary technique, tout impressive resumes and bring a who’s who of culinary influences to their shared table. Jonathan Haffmans was raised on a farm in the Netherlands, a little south of Rotterdam, in a region with a climate similar to Cape Cod; an area also rich in oysters, mussels and fresh fish. Dealing with short growing seasons, he learned at a young age the art of preserving the family farm’s bounty. Growing up in an agricultural environment gave Haffmans an appreciation for knowing one’s food source first-hand and eating sustainably. His passion for food led him to seek a degree in culinary arts and one in hotel and restaurant management at ROC Zadkine in Rotterdam. From there, he embarked on an international journey, working in the United States, Bermuda and the Caribbean, both front and back of the house positions, gaining real life training in all things culinary.
During a break from his then-job in Aruba, Jonathan met Karen, an advertising executive from New York, when both were part of a shark feeding scuba diving expedition in Curaçao. After tiring of long distance dating, Jonathan settled in New York, eventually landing the position as senior sous chef at the iconic New York Palace Hotel. After marrying Karen, who had a demanding professional career of her own, the Haffmans juggled raising two young children while living in an overpriced, cramped city apartment. Ready for a lifestyle change, Jonathan accepted a position as executive sous chef at Chatham Bars Inn. The Haffmans packed up and moved to Cape Cod eight years ago. As they settled into Cape living, they were disappointed by the lack, at that time, of what they considered to be “refined” dining; essentially restaurants that had more adventurous menu offerings. Out of this frustration, the idea for Vers began to germinate.
Jeremiah Reardon is a bona fide Cape Codder. He was born in Hyannis, grew up in Orleans and was raised in a restaurant family. He spent many years helping out in the family business: first washing dishes at the age of ten and eventually graduating to line cook at around age 14. Initially pursuing a business degree, he ultimately decided to parlay his love for cooking into a career. He attended the French Culinary Institute in New York City and traveled extensively throughout the United States for work post graduation. Along the way, he has toiled for many notable culinary greats including Wolfgang Puck (Postrio, San Francisco), Terence Fuery (Striped Bass, Philadelphia) and Gray Kunz (Lespinasse, NYC). Returning to his home turf Reardon eventually became executive chef at the Brewster Fish House, where, in 2007, he was a James Beard nominee for Best Chef/Northeast.
In 2013, Haffmans opened Vers in an intimate space downstairs from the Orpheum Theatre on Main Street in Chatham. Jonathan began to cultivate an audience of loyal followers eager to indulge in his unique take on fresh local products using imaginative flavors. However, the small scale of the operation (seating was limited to fourteen guests), did not allow for Haffmans to fully test the scope of his culinary creativity.
After three years in Chatham, the Haffmans planned to reopen and reinvigorate Vers in a larger spot (capacity 57) in Orleans. At the same time, Reardon was searching for a new opportunity. The three met and meshed well both professionally and personally, and the Haffmans invited Reardon to join their team as co-executive chef. For the past three years, the trio has navigated the ups and downs of opening what was essentially a new restaurant together. Reardon chuckles and says, “That first summer was rough; it was me, Jonathan and a couple of high school juniors in the kitchen. We spent a lot of time together that very first summer. It taught us that sometimes you need to be thrust in a situation to push you past what you think your boundaries are.”
This season, Jonathan Haffmans is taking off his apron and coming out front to be the “face” of Vers. This move allows them to bridge the strength they have built in the back of the house and carry it through to the front door. Meanwhile, Reardon remains at the helm in the kitchen, now fully staffed with talent, recruited not only for their culinary abilities, but, as he states, “because they are overall good human beings.” Karen reflects, “I think this arrangement works really well because these two men really complement each other. They worked well in the kitchen together but this now allows Jonathan to take on more of an ownership role and control what is going on out front. We have complete trust in Jeremiah and faith in his abilities to run the kitchen. It’s a shared passion for food that unites us all in a common goal to make Vers the most successful it can be.” Besides handling the financials, Karen curates the wine list and addresses many of the small organizational details from design decisions to some of the social media marketing (a task shared by Reardon).
“Vers,” Jonathan explains, “means something to all of us personally. Vers is the Dutch word for fresh and here we embrace this concept fully as a culinary team: from our cocktail program to making our own fresh ricotta, pastas, crème fraîche, to even doing our own ice creams for our house made desserts...we are taking it to levels that others just aren’t. Sure, it would be easier for us to go to the store and buy these things but what fun is that?” Karen interjects, “It’s just not the principle on which we started Vers.”
It goes without saying that son of a farmer, Haffmans, and native son, Reardon, have carefully cultivated relationships with local growers, suppliers and fishermen. At Vers, they don’t just talk the talk when it comes to supporting local producers, they walk the walk. They happily name drop the sources for myriad ingredients gracing Vers’ summer menu: Joshua Schiff at CBI Farm (tomatoes, flowers, micro greens); Tim Friary, Cape Cod Organic Farms (strawberries, asparagus, lettuce); Dr. Ron Backer, Surrey Farms (sunchokes, edible flowers, tomatoes, Belle Isle cress); MV Mycology (mushrooms); Stony Island Sea Farm (shell and fin fish) and fishermen friends with boats in Provincetown contributing scallops, lobster and a variety of dragnet delights. Out back, there is a chef’s garden that provides lavender and mint for the cocktail program, curated by front of the house manager Fred Stoffel. Other plantings like microgreens and tomatoes germinated by CBI Farm grow side by side with lettuce pots provided by Dr. Ben Chung from Caroline’s Corner Farm in East Orleans.
A visit to Vers version 2.0 is a delight. Many upgrades from bar to bathrooms have been made to the inviting space. Snowy white tablecloths and a soothing neutral palette create a serene backdrop allowing the colorful cuisine to take center stage. Large oil paintings and photographs from the Nines Art Gallery in Harwichport are prominently displayed on the walls. The cozy room is divided into bar and dining areas, with a small waiting area in between. On the tables are terra-cotta pots holding purple sorrel from CBI Farm in Brewster. The overall ambiance is one of casual elegance.
Every meal at Vers begins with an amuse bouche, a small taste to get you excited about what’s to come. Tonight’s complimentary tidbit is designed to get the palate humming: elderflower-compressed sweet canary melon with honey gelée and a hint of lavender—elegant, delicate and fresh.
One bite of the salmon tartare starter erases any lingering skepticism of whether Vers will live up to its name. Refreshingly light and addictively delicious, the taste is brightened by the addition of the citrusy sumo orange, diced herbs and gin vinaigrette. Scooped onto a hearty slice of Pain d’Avignon bread (one of the only items not made in house), this was a mouthful of pure perfection.
A hiramasa crudo with a geoduck sashimi layered on top also delights. Another artistic and vibrant plate, it arrives with a complement of enoki mushrooms, watermelon radishes and, believe it or not, a kimchi sorbet. Don’t ask me to describe it, but trust me, this flavor combination works and the liquid nitrogen pour elicits a round of oohs and aahs.
Hot appetizers include a velvety jerusalem artichoke soup swirled with a purée of watercress and a goat cheese croquette. We indulge in an order of the Provincetown Sea Scallops: three hearty pan-seared gems with a house-made jus, native Bibb lettuce puréed with vegetable stock, accompanied by a terrine of sweet corn and summer beans.
Summer mains include a variety of seafood selections including Chatham monkfish and Atlantic salmon. Our knowledgeable waiter’s glowing recitation sells me on the Snow Shore Lobster: a one-and-a-half- pound beauty (shell removed, except for the tail) trapped in the waters of Orleans. Seared German striped tomato, a potato pave and a pour over of a delicious tomato flavored broth round out this dazzling entrée. Next visit, I will be sure to try one of chef Reardon’s recommendations, the Loup de Mer: European sea bass served whole with the cavity scooped out and filled with a mix of andouille sausage, oysters, panko and herbs. The light ricotta gnocchi are housemade with a smorgasbord of summer veggies including organic corn, local mushrooms and sunchoke. The beef entrée is a salt-aged sirloin from Painted Hills, North Dakota, enhanced with chanterelle mushrooms and a black-peppercorn vinaigrette. Like many proteins and vegetables at Vers, this is prepared “sous vide”, vacuum-sealed and cooked in a water bath, then seared to temperature which gave this meat a tender, perfect bite.
No trip to Vers is complete without dessert. When Haffmans first opened Vers in Chatham, he needed a hook to draw guests in off Main Street. Enter Truth or Dare: a dessert “surprise” that has been part of Vers from inception. “It’s been done before, in the culinary world, where a dessert is built right on the table. What makes it uniquely ours,” explains Jonathan, “is the flavor profile and the themes behind it. We are inspired by seasonality. We change it up every few weeks and sometimes there are many of us brainstorming ideas to get to the final result. During summer season, this is offered as the fifth course of the tasting menu but off season it is also available a la carte.” New pastry chef, Matt Forant, has also designed a dessert menu sure to satisfy any sweet tooth. We were particularly enamored of the “textures of strawberries,” a visual masterpiece showcasing the native fruit in many edible forms, from a bright surprise of a mouthful gel sphere to a luscious sorbet.
Have something to celebrate or just want to leave the decision making to the experts? Vers offers a five-course tasting menu that they will tailor specifically to tastes and dietary restrictions. Another option is the $35 prix fixe three-course menu, starting mid September and running through June from 4:30-6:30 daily. Chef Reardon declares, “Here every week is restaurant week! This menu gives anyone the opportunity to come in and try us at an affordable price point. Usually, there is a choice of three starters, three entrees and two desserts. You can also add for $10 a two-glass wine pairing.”
Late in September, the fall menu will reflect seasonal changes. As the temperatures cool, the culinary team will incorporate more of Haffmans’ Dutch farm-learned techniques: sausage making, fermenting, pickling and preserving. As always, the menu will also incorporate the Haffmans’ and Reardon’s shared love of travel. “We use miso and soybeans, some Asian influence, we make our own pasta, like the Italians. In winter, you will see more of the German influences, braising, the use of cabbages and apples, maybe some fermented sauerkraut. We don’t like to focus on one particular style but incorporate from many cultures always with an eye on seasonality,” states Jonathan.
In late winter, Vers will take a much-deserved break and the culinary crew will “stage” at various restaurants to expose themselves to unfamiliar techniques and cuisines. Reardon spent his last break staging at the prestigious Eleven Madison Park in Manhattan, which, he claims, “Was an eye-opening experience,” and adds, “I’m always open to expanding my knowledge in my craft.” During break, there will be conversations with their local growers to determine the direction of future ideas and maybe some travels for even more culinary inspiration. I can’t wait to see what else this talented team has up their sleeve!
Vers
15 Cove Road, Orleans
774-561-2185 / verscapecod.com
