Through the Pass: Apt Cape Cod
It’s an unseasonably warm Sunday morning in mid-February, but the weather isn’t the main reason that Regina and Brandi Felt-Castellano can’t stop smiling. A line of customers waiting for tables snakes outside the door at 2149 Main Street (Route 6A) in Brewster. Three short months earlier, they reopened the restaurant after a quick remodel. In conjunction with the relaunch, breakfast and lunch were added to the dinner service at Apt Cape Cod. The transition from employee to employer was a leap of faith that Regina had made just eight months before when these two women decided it was time to work toward building their own name.
Cape native Regina Felt-Castellano bypassed the culinary school route and honed her skills working back-of-the-house positions on Cape Cod and elsewhere. Her first gig was as a garde manger cook at Mahoney’s in Orleans, where she jokingly reflects, “I was thrown into the fire.” By the end of her first season, she had been promoted to line cook and had discovered she had a real knack for the job. Her inquisitive nature, a good palate and her desire to experiment made her a natural in the kitchen. “She learns whatever she wants,” marvels Brandi, “she will see something and say, ‘I can do that’ and she figures out how to do it.” However, it was her role as sous chef to Jonathan Haffmans at Vers (at the original location in downtown Chatham) that really opened her eyes to the kind of chef she aspired to be. “Working at Vers was downright scary,” explains Regina. “It was the first time I worked in a kitchen that was just so meticulous, everything was small plates with an emphasis on flavors and textures. I had come from a production background working at a country club, and this attention to detail was a whole new world.” One night when the restaurant was shorthanded, Regina asked Brandi to fill in. Brandi, who Regina affectionately refers to as a washashore, moved to Cape Cod at the age of ten, the place her military father had roots. Restaurant life was initially just a way to pay her bills and tuition for college. She eventually left culinary work behind and spent a decade working in the pharmaceutical field for CVS. As the calls for her to pitch in at the restaurant became more frequent, Brandi realized being in the culinary world was where she was the happiest. When Vers closed their Chatham location, both ladies accepted positions at the new Chatham Wine Bar, with Regina earning for the first time the title of executive chef, and Brandi was her sous chef. For the next four years, they worked side by side at the Wine Bar, located inside the upscale Chatham Inn, which had earned the distinction of being named a Relais & Chateaux property. Perks of the job included trips to other Relais & Chateaux luxury properties and exposure to the cuisine of some groundbreaking chefs. Eventually hoping to scale back hours and carve out more quality family time, they left the Wine Bar for separate pursuits: Regina to chef at the Old Yarmouth Inn while Brandi accepted a position as in-house chef for KAM Appliances in Hyannis.
In spring of 2019, Regina was feeling frustrated, and was daunted by thoughts of another busy season on Cape Cod, spending long hours doing high volume in someone else’s kitchen. Craving a space that would give her the ability to develop a menu, she and Brandi broached the idea of renting dining space from friend Nick Caplice. Caplice had recently leased the building housing the Brewster Coffee Shop nestled on picturesque Route 6A. The cozy weather-shingled bungalow in Brewster offered a daily breakfast until noon and would then close shop until the following morning. The trio hammered out a deal which would allow the Felt-Castellanos to take over the space five nights a week (Wednesday-Sunday) for dinner service. In June, they gained approval from the town to go ahead with their plan which included an expansion of hours along with a seasonal liquor license (they are currently awaiting state approval for a year-round one). Regina left her current position and dove head-first into curating a menu with a focus on local, fresh and sustainable cuisine. After a month of buying supplies and fine-tuning her menu, Regina hung a banner over the coffee house sign announcing Apt Cape Cod “tasting and tapas” and opened the doors for evening service. Guests could choose between a la carte tapas selections or a four-course weekly tasting menu (with or without wine pairings).
When the Apt launch became a reality in July 2019, Regina was toiling solo during those early days. Realizing it was advantageous to have a paycheck not dependent on Apt, the pair had decided that Brandi would keep her job at KAM. “Brewster Coffee Shop would close at noon and I would come in and cover the mismatched diner style tables with linens and black cutlery to create a separate ambiance from the daytime one. Some nights,” explains Regina, “I would not only be cooking but also doing table service and by the time August rolled around, things started to pick up and it was impossible to do it all.” Brandi has subsequently learned to juggle her day job with working the front of the house at Apt in the evenings and weekends. Chef Regina revels in the freedom of creating a new tasting menu weekly. Each menu follows a similar format of four courses: one from the land, one from the sea, a charcuterie and a sweet ending. The order in which courses are presented can change and Regina will happily substitute with something from the tapas menu if an allergy or dietary preference comes into play.
The reality of two distinct businesses operating from the same location started to take a toll in the fall. Regina contemplated searching for her own venue from which to operate when she was presented with another proposition: to fully take over the breakfast/lunch service and the lease of the property. The women embraced the opportunity and closed shop for two weeks, also tackling big projects including the installation of new floors and numerous cosmetic upgrades. In November, they opened Apt for the second time. “Some people thought we were crazy to open for breakfast and lunch for the very first time in November. This building has never been in operation this time of year, so we knew it was a risk,” Regina explains. “However,” chimes in Brandi, “word of mouth has been great for us though. We love Brewster, this community has been so open and receptive to us.” In fact, this spring the Felt-Castellanos will be renting out their current home in Orleans and moving to a house close to Apt. Relocation will give Regina easy access to the kitchen garden she is envisioning in a plot behind the restaurant. Plans include cultivating many of her most frequently used ingredients including rosemary, for her famous bread. Trips to farms like nearby Chatham Bars Inn Farm, as well as other favorites including Lake Farm Gardens (Orleans), Hart Farm (Dennis Port), and Cape Abilities (Dennis) all offer Regina a wide range of choices when designing weekly menus centered around what is available seasonally.
My first visit to Apt Cape Cod (Brewster Coffee Shop signage was still up) was for a tasting menu featuring some selections on Apt’s tapas menu. The cozy dining space is divided into two areas (the smaller one is ideal for a party of eight) filled with freestanding tables sporting white linen tablecloths, black cutlery and small black lanterns holding flickering votives. An eight-stooled L-shaped counter sits inside the entrance of the larger room, and seating there offers a glimpse into Chef Regina’s domain. In warmer months, there is additional patio seating for daytime dining. During my visit it was still off season, so alcohol was not available; the spotlight was strictly on the cuisine which had no problem capturing our undivided attention.
We begin with a slice of Regina’s homemade rosemary garlic bread accompanied by sea salt sweet butter molded into an assortment of seashell shapes. Honestly, one of the best breads I’ve ever tasted. An amuse bouche featured a perfectly fried quadrello di bufala (Italian buffalo milk cheese) accented with a house-made bruschetta-like topping and a touch of balsamic glaze. We were then presented with a progression of five courses (a departure from the usual four), each displaying an awe-inspiring knowledge of flavors and combinations. From the land and sea came a unique twist on surf and turf: thinly sliced cracked black pepper beef carpaccio topped with a generous mound of ahi tuna tartare, avocado, sesame and a lime soy wasabi. Next: a hearty crab cake, brimming with Maine lump blue crab mixed with bell peppers and panko, plated with black garlic, pickled vegetables and a smear of chipotle aioli. Third course showcased a beautifully pink roulade of lamb layered over toasted barley and wild mushrooms sauced with a meaty Cabernet demi-glace. I swear, this course brought tears to my lamb-loving husband’s eyes! Brandi, our server that evening, described the next offering as, “charcuterie composed of a few of our favorite things:” a wedge of Camembert, Regina’s homemade bacon jam, and a slice of Brandi’s favorite wild ramp salami. One of the highlights of our visit, in addition to Regina’s exceptional cuisine, was Brandi’s tableside manner. She exudes a welcoming warmth that makes us feel like treasured guests at a dinner party. No surprise to learn that Apt’s motto is “come as strangers, leave as friends.”
We all swore we couldn’t possibly manage another bite until we saw Regina ladling a decadent caramel sauce over a rich date sticky toffee pudding next to a scoop of smooth vanilla gelato. The meal concluded with a much-deserved round of applause and chef Regina lowered her head humbly as her face broke into a giant dimpled smile. Brandi presented us with a parting gift from Regina’s dad, homemade dark chocolate coconut treats, and hugs were exchanged all around. A sweet ending to a magical evening.
Two weeks later, we pulled into the packed parking lot and wondered if breakfast could possibly create the same excitement we experienced at our tasting dinner. We were pleasantly surprised to see the sophisticated black flatware and cloth napkins also being used during breakfast service. Succulents adorned the tabletops and bar, and artwork by local artist Karen North Wells brightens the walls. Staff members sport black tee shirts bearing the restaurant’s logo, an oyster shell with the restaurant name written in script created by artist/friend Dandelion Richie. Regina says the goal is to offer guests the type of cuisine you might find at breakfast in a high-end inn. Items range from a breakfast flatbread to crab cakes Benedict. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free selections are available and easily identifiable. To make Apt even more destination worthy, the house brew is B Side Coffee, an organic blend, roasted by Hangar B in Chatham. Brandi swears it’s the best coffee served in the United States and was adamant that it be an Apt staple. Knowing that Regina’s signature avocado toast has been receiving positive buzz, it was a must try for me. I was happy to see a reappearance of Regina’s scrumptious house-made rosemary garlic bread, this time toasted and topped with ripe avocado slices, two perfect sunny-side-up eggs, bruschetta and a hint of balsamic drizzle. A side of lightly-dressed greens made this a delicious, healthy breakfast option. My husband chose the omelet of the day and it arrived chock full of cheddar, crumbled bacon and thinly-cut slices of roasted Brussels sprouts. The omelet was draped over a heaping mound of crispy smashed red bliss home fries with hints of garlic and onion; a superior serving of spuds. We also shared a single lemon ricotta pancake with blueberries, because why not? It did not disappoint…creamy, sweet and tart. It is obvious that the focus on high quality fare carries from dinner to breakfast.
Apt’s emphasis on producing original farm-based cuisine is just part of its appeal. Regina and Brandi (nicknamed “the moms” by staffers) have created a work ethic and positive culture which translates to their employees, who they consider extended family. Server Keelia O’Donnell states, “these are the two hardest working women ever! At the end of my shift, I don’t even want to complain about my sore feet because I see how much more they do.” Regina and Brandi take pride in being women in a still very male-dominated field and they hope to empower others to do the same. Take note Cape Cod, these women are raising the bar in Brewster!
Apt Cape Cod
2149 Main Street, Brewster
978-602-0486 / AptCapeCod.com
