Josh's at Davisville: A Dream Continued

For Eric, there was an additional challenge. “I had never managed a kitchen before,” he says. “I had been a sous chef for years, but me running a kitchen? It was a lot on my shoulders. And with him passing…” he trails off. “It was rough, but it helped me and Kim to grow more.” With a wry chuckle of someone who’s come through those dark days, Kim adds, “We didn’t have a choice.” In a true case of sink-or-swim, Davis knifed through the chop like Phelps or Spitz. Looking at Eric while sitting at one of the dining room tables on a bright March day, Kim adds, “And you branched out. You took chances that Josh wouldn’t have.”

Davis just may be underplaying his skills a bit. The United States Naval veteran cut his culinary teeth (along with vast amounts of potatoes, carrots, onions, etc.) aboard the U.S.S. America, a Kitty Hawk-class supercarrier. There, Davis worked to feed well over five thousand sailors a day. “It was sixteen hours a day, seven days a week,” he recalls. After his stint in the navy, Davis went on to culinary school in Pennsylvania, and then returned to his hometown of Cleveland, Ohio, and turned pro for the Cleveland Indians’ (now Guardians) and Cleveland Browns’ catering programs. “I then opened a couple of hotels and restaurants, and then came here,” he recalls. The man whose broad shoulders look like he could do some damage to a major league fastball found his way to Cape Cod in 2007. “I wanted a change of pace. It took me a while to get used to it,” he laughs.

A lifelong Falmouth resident, Kim brought a history of business ownership with her to the operation. “I actually owned two bagel shops,” she remembers. “Bagel Haven in Mashpee, which is still there, and Bosco’s Bagels.” Bosco’s was a local stop located just up the street in Davisville. Now Kim brings her discerning eye to all the details in the bar program and beyond. “We change up the cocktail list a few times a year,” she says. Her attention to detail is impressive. “I don’t let other people cut the fruit,” she laughs. “I have a certain way of cutting limes, for example. I just hate when you go someplace and they give you this tiny little sliver of lime for your drink.” Herbs for muddling had better be fresh and vibrant. “I’ll run out to the market get some basil if need be.”

Step in the restaurant, and Brendon Harris’ relaxed smile greets you from behind the bar. He has an effortless way of engaging his patrons and setting them at ease; folks will be laughing in no time. Often, the laughter becomes an infectious ripple across the small bar where everyone is either friends, or about to become so in short order. As the spring months warm, the cocktail list freshens. The listing of margaritas, martinis, and specialty cocktails range from the familiar (espresso martini and Painkiller) to variations of classics like the Mexican and Cape Cod Mules. Where one features Hornitos tequila and lime, the other offers Tito’s vodka and cranberry to be mixed with ginger beer. Nine different tequilas to choose from make Josh’s a destination for the margarita lover. In all, over two dozen options are on the list to peruse – some with bubbles, some without. For those needing a draft beer to wash down the remnants of the long and dusty trail, a sizable lineup of local Cape Cod Beer is on tap. The top billing is labeled “Chef’s Choice Beer”. His current selection – Cape Cod Beer’s Narrowlands New England IPA.

The pleasing wine list has options at every price point ranging from the approachable to the special occasion Cabernet Sauvignon from such renowned names as Caymus and Chappellet. The terroir of Chappellet’s location on Pritchard Hill in Napa Valley makes their mountain-grown Cabernet Sauvignon sought after across the globe. Forbes Magazine says of Pritchard Hill, it “…is the source of some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in the world.”

Perhaps it’s due to his military background, but Chef Eric’s meticulousness in the kitchen leaves no aspect unattended, from the spotlessness of the space, to the plating of finished dishes, and everything in between. This focus reveals itself in the flavors of everything from appetizers and salads to entrées and pasta plates. Specifically, the balance attained within the flavors of a particular item is inspired. The duck wings are a prime example. The sweetness is in harmony with the saltiness of the soy sauce, and there’s enough garlic flavor to enjoy but not leave you still “enjoying” it long after the wings are picked clean. A sprinkling of sesame seeds gives them a toasty addition.

The locally-sourced breads are from Pain D’Avignon in Hyannis. At Josh’s, the bruschetta is built upon a focaccia that has been toasted perfectly with just the right amount of crisp that doesn’t crumble apart when you cut (or sink your teeth) into it. The vine-ripened tomatoes, basil and melty fresh mozzarella with a drizzle of aged balsamic vinegar finishes off this surprisingly light way to get the evening started.

The salads are beautifully assembled in appetizing combinations by Kim’s daughter Kayla. “She’s my right hand. She takes care of anything that needs getting done,” Kim enthuses. The seasonal salads are built on sleek dishes, and their entrée size is large enough to fill you up even before you think about adding any of the seven different protein options. There is something about the fruit, nut, and cheese combination that is magic in a salad. Regardless of the blend, it always seems to just work perfectly. One seasonal salad has cranberries, toasted cashews and crumbled goat cheese come together delightfully on a bed of baby spinach tossed with your choice of six dressings. Or perhaps you’re looking for a more unique assembly atop field greens? Lightly fried avocado, artichoke hearts, asparagus, cucumbers, and radishes atop greens is a genuine hit when dressed with the lemon Champagne vinaigrette.

Count Josh’s at Davisville as an establishment where they understand that a seemingly endless list of choices can be off-putting to a customer. Menus that are pages long prove the point that “more” isn’t always “better”. For such a streamlined listing, Josh’s has an impressive array of choices for both the carnivore and the pescatarian. Steak Diane is an item not seen often, and the mushroom cognac cream sauce is the perfect accompaniment to an eight-ounce filet. Or there’s the coffee-rubbed filet with a maple coffee sauce. For those with a hearty appetite, the sixteen-ounce rib eye cannot be overlooked. Adorned with a bright and fresh red chimichurri, the rib eye is a feast of a dish. Couple it with one of the many full-bodied reds on the wine list, and any night becomes a special one.

The salmon filet has just the right crispy sear and is topped with a vibrant – in both color and flavor – fresh peach salsa. The more delicate taste of the sole francaise is drizzled with a lemon butter sauce that will leave you content but not overstuffed. You may choose to enjoy the lemon butter sauce over seared sea scallops instead, where those little morsels of sea candy really shine.

Several fresh pasta dishes round out a menu that has built an extremely loyal following – those who know about Josh’s, where guests become friends. For that to be the case, it must be about more than the food. The charm imparted by the soft accent lighting and just the right amount of decorative pieces, many from reclaimed wood, warm the place. It’s the staff, however, that’ll warm the heart. “We are so fortunate when it comes to our staff,” Kim gushes. Working side by side, restaurant staff becomes like family. At Josh’s, it’s a case of family coming to work side by side with one another. Along with Kim’s daughter Kayla, her son Evan – who handles expediting orders – and his brother Matt (the “part-time bartender, full-time son,” she laughs) are on board. Eric’s brother Patrick and sister Bethany are also in on the act as part of the service team.

The family dynamic is a blended one at Josh’s. It’s known that heat and pressure can turn carbon into diamonds over time. The heat of a professional kitchen, and the pressure of running a successful establishment can turn business partners into life partners over time. For Eric and Kim, they realized what they had in each other during the height of the COVID pandemic in 2020. This June, the couple will celebrate their third wedding anniversary!

So, what does the couple who not only found a way through the unknown of COVID shutdowns and restrictions but found each other along the way get for one another for an anniversary gift? How about a food trailer! “My daughter and I went down to Florida, and found a dealer,” Kim says. “We had it fully customized, so it has everything in it for Eric.” In addition to some of the menu items found at Josh’s, the trailer will feature sandwiches and more. “We’re trying to think a little outside the box with it,” Eric points out. A simple mention on social media has already stoked calls and emails looking to book the trailer for private events. Other possibilities could include local golf courses looking to offer more variety. Who knows, you may even see them at your favorite tailgating parking lot along Route 1 in Foxborough this fall.T