In-di-go-go at Grill 43

When Stephen Baroni, beverage director and co-owner of Grill 43, strains a shaken and chilled blend over a funky blue ice cube and lays a lemon wheel on top, he captures my attention. As the mixture cascades over this unique ice cube, the aptly named In-Di-Go-Go begins to take on a purplish hue. The drink, Baroni explains, contains the basic DNA of a vodka sour with a few upgrades: Cold River Blueberry Vodka, fresh squeezed lemon juice and housemade simple syrup to counteract the tartness of the citrus. The cocktail has quickly established itself as the house bestseller at Grill 43. A quick sip confirms why: it’s refreshingly light and easy to drink and, hey, who doesn’t enjoy the classic combination of blueberry and lemon? Honestly, though, the ice cube has me wondering. What is behind this color-changing phenomenon?

The source, Baroni explains, is the butterfly-pea flower, which grows predominantly in Southeast Asia. The petals of the flower are used to produce a specialty tea, which Grill 43 brews and freezes in molds to make large cubes. In a drink, the cube reacts with the acidity of the lemon juice to produce an ever-deepening purple color as the ice melts. It works as a natural litmus paper. Baroni laughs, “Some guests have actually asked for a take out cup so they can bring the cube home!”

Baroni had priorities when creating the bar program at Grill 43. Of course, he wanted the emphasis to be on creating well-balanced cocktails that would appeal to a broad audience. What sets a Grill 43 cocktail apart is the finely-tuned details, like ice. Baroni feels that ice is a key, but commonly overlooked, component in a well-composed drink. So when he wasn’t successful in finding a delivery source for clear block ice, he decided to make it himself. Filling an Igloo cooler with water and freezing it partially with the lid open results in water that has frozen “directionally, like on a lake,” explains Baroni. “It freezes from the top and the gases are pushed to the bottom and the upper part remains clear.” From these large clear blocks, Baroni uses a bread knife and hammer to score and then chisel off more manageable shards. This hand carved ice is then used in some of the classic cocktails, including the old fashioned and the negroni, and for individual pours of fine liquors.

In the off-season, cocktail aficionados can enjoy a beverage off Grill 43’s “secret” bar menu, which features some more labor-intensive drinks that busy times don’t allow for. The menu was created to lure mixology fans to the bar and includes specialty elixirs. As the transition to high season takes place, imbibers will still find plenty to appreciate about the beverage preparation at Grill 43. Baroni explains, “I have found that the average guest isn’t overly concerned with ordering a cocktail that offers a ton of different ingredients, but everyone seems to want one that is both simple and fresh. Realistically, when dealing with a full house, we need drinks that won’t slow service down.”

To that end, Baroni has curated a beverage menu where the offerings have at least one component made in house: a freshly squeezed juice, a house-made syrup, an infusion, or the aforementioned hand-carved ice. House-made dehydrated fruit slices, which Baroni discovered cuts down on spoilage, present an aesthetically-pleasing garnish to many of the specialty drinks.

As I nurse the last sips of my In-Di-Go- Go, I revel in the hustle and bustle of the full house around me, proof that historic 6A is not averse to change.

Grill 43
43 Route 6A, Yarmouth Port
508-255-5440 / grill43.com