Visiting Every Restaurant / Eatery on Main Street from East to West

The Main Attraction: A Newbie Explores Buzzards Bay

By Bill O’Neill | August 19, 2023

Photography by Tracy and Bill O'Neill

As a kid, I explored the length of Main Street Hyannis on many Saturdays. As an adult, I lived and worked nearby, so I’ve tried almost every restaurant on that stretch of road.

As a lifelong mid-Cape guy, I felt a bit of apprehension when my family moved from Centerville to Buzzards Bay in May 2022. Before long, though, I figured the best approach was to treat my new “over the Canal” life as a big adventure. In the months that followed, I visited every restaurant on the Buzzards Bay version of Main Street at least once. Here’s what I discovered (going east to west).

Overlooking the Belmont Circle rotary, Way Ho Restaurant has the feel of a village hangout, with big TVs showing whatever sportsball is in season. When we want to go beyond the tried-but-true Chinese restaurant classics, the house specialties include Meat Wor Bar (chunks of chicken, beef and roast pork cooked with Chinese vegetables), Hunan-style crispy fish fillets and Family Delight (scallops, shrimp, chicken, roast pork, and selected Chinese vegetables in a crispy potato nest). We give an enthusiastic thumbs-up to their Peking duck.

I always feel a quick change in atmosphere when I enter The Blended Berry. Walking in from the huge parking lot it shares with an Ocean State Job Lot, I surrender to the “I’m on my way home from yoga and I need a smoothie” vibe. I like to order The Hulk (pineapple, mango, spinach, kale, banana and coconut water), in part because the name makes me laugh, and in part because I’m a little nervous about trying the Rocket Fuel (cold brew coffee, homemade peanut butter, cinnamon, banana and almond milk). Sometimes I just don’t want to lose that yoga vibe. When I want something more solid, they also have a selection of generously-portioned açai bowls, as well as oatmeal bowls and gourmet toasts. The crew is remarkably speedy, so even if I make some substitutions to the menu (thank you, almond allergy), I’m out of there in no time. The Blended Berry also has a Falmouth location.

Photo 1: there are many dining options right on Main Street, Buzzards Bay.

Photo 2: The Blended Berry’s aptly-named smoothie, The Hulk.

Mezza Luna, the oldest restaurant in the village, has drawn upon Speranza Cubellis’s recipes since 1937. Owner E.J. Cubellis said the secret to Mezza Luna’s longevity is consistency. That includes sticking with those recipes, as well as with long-term suppliers and employees who’ve been there for decades, Cubellis said, adding, “I had a customer in here today who was visiting from California. He said, ‘I’ve got to tell you. The eggplant, the pasta, the french fries – it was all just like when I was here 25 years ago.’” The family business survived a devastating seven-alarm fire in 2007 and the sprawling new building can easily accommodate busloads of diners. The Wednesday and Saturday prime rib special (a traditional 22-ounce cut and a cattlemen’s cut of 32 ounces) draws crowds, but the old-school Italian entrées – lasagna, ravioli, shrimp scampi – are not to be missed. My wife, Tracy, has tried chicken parmigiana just about everywhere and Mezza Luna’s version easily exceeded her standards. The marinara sauce is a little bit sweet, and the chicken is crispy on the outside and moist inside – all just as she says it ought to be. Whatever we’ve ordered, the portions have been oversized, so we were all set for lunch the next day. If we hadn’t felt stuffed, we would have loved to try an old-school dessert, like the tiramisu and cannoli.

I took my sister to Leo’s Breakfast Restaurant when she was visiting from Maryland, and we both felt instantly at ease. It’s the kind of place for a sit-down traditional breakfast that you’ll find in almost every small American town. Eggs with home fries, towering stacks of pancakes, bottomless mugs of coffee – you know the drill. Someday when I’m looking for a challenge, I’ll try the Big Hungry Man (or Woman) Breakfast: two eggs served with two garnishes (choices include bacon, sausage and linguica) and two pancakes. One of the things I love about Leo’s is that there are always some regulars at the next table, a small group of local guys or gals who’ve been coming here for years for a weekly catch-up. With a little bit of eavesdropping, I can go home with a few fresh bits of village news.

Photo 1: Mezza Luna features Speranza Cubellis' recipes dating back to 1937.

Photo 2: Looking for local gossip? Leo's Breakfast Restaurant is the place to turn.

Photo 3: When taking a break from cooking, the writer Bill and his wife Tracy – now residents of Buzzards Bay – enjoy an array of take-out offerings from Krua Thai. MAX ANDERSON PHOTO

My favorite place to spend my paper route money on Main Street in Hyannis all those years ago was the Record Room, where I’d struggle to choose a 45 from that week’s Top 40. So, Stomping Grounds Grille won me over in a hurry when I saw framed classic LPs and concert posters on the walls, and cocktails named Loving Cup, Bold as Love, Cinnamon Girl and Crosseyed and Painless (references to the Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix, Neil Young and Talking Heads, for those of you who aren’t classic rock fans). Obviously, owners Helene Rogers and her son Charlie Freestone are big music fans. “I used to follow the Dead around, and he used to follow Phish,” she said. She loves album covers from the 70s – “some of the best artwork ever,” she said. The grateful med plate (see what they did there?) is among the appetizers. As for the entrées, the focus is on seafood, including the maritime Mediterranean stew, lemon caper cod and the Buzzards Bay casserole (cod and shrimp). Thanks to one of their specials, we now have a new item for our at-home rotation: a scallop, Gruyère, bacon and fig jam flatbread. I’m hoping that the next time we go back, there’ll be an open table in the back room, which has a turntable and a stash of vintage LPs.

Named after the original owner’s wife and daughter, Betty Ann’s Dairy Freeze has been through multiple ownership changes since its 1955 launch, but it’s retained its 50s vibe. I haven’t been able to determine whether they once had servers on rolling skates delivering your order to your car, but it seems entirely possible. The menu topper is soft-serve ice cream, and they don’t overwhelm you with choices: vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, and coffee, along with vanilla-chocolate twist and coffee-strawberry twist, plus a flavor of the week (examples include black raspberry, coconut, and pumpkin) and a sherbet of the week. Beyond that, though, there are plenty of other options, including about 20 hard-serve ice creams, shakes, sundaes and Italian ice. This is a cash-only business, but they have an onsite ATM.

My friend Hilary, who moved to Buzzards Bay not long before I did, urged me to check out the Rod & Rail, and now I know why. There were way too many enticing options on the menu, but I finally settled on some comfort food: the R & R More Famous Bowl, a heaping serving of mashed potatoes, covered with corn and gravy, with fried chicken tenders and melted cheddar on top. Tracy picked the Smash Burger (their patties are grilled with onions and served on a brioche bun) and truffle tater tots. I’m looking forward to return visits, so I can try the roasted mushroom risotto and the short rib tacos. The Rod & Rail also has an impressive cocktail list, including the Wild Child (grapefruit tequila, lavender simple syrup, grapefruit juice, lime juice and soda water) and the Smoke Ya Greens (mezcal, chili liqueur, rosemary and lemon). There’s limited outdoor seating, but that’s okay because there’s a cozy and amiable feel inside.

Tracy is an awesome cook and some of our Main Street restaurant explorations have inspired her to recreate some discoveries at home. But every cook needs a night off and Krua Thai quickly became one of our staples for takeout nights. The owners are super friendly, and the service is lightning quick. Tracy’s Thai test is pad thai and this one’s excellent … so good that we’ve barely dented the rest of the menu. Entrées still on the “hey, we’ve got to try that” list include Wild Boar Basil (pork with mixed veggies and green curry sauce) and Salmon Ginger (which adds onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, scallions, snow peas and baby corn to the title items).

Photo 1: The rock-n-roller in you will appreciate all of the artwork and vintage vinyl at The Stomping Grounds Grille.

Photo 2: Mother/son owners Charlie Freestone and Helene Rogers

Photo 3: Nearing seventy years in business, Betty Ann's Dairy Freeze still has that 50s vibe.

Photo 4: Must stop in for beer.

Mahoney’s on Main Street is across the street from the Buzzards Bay station, a stop on the CapeFLYER route connecting Boston and Hyannis. The first thing I noticed when we walked in was the 20-foot-tall railroad crossing sign in front of the bar. I was slightly jealous of the couple who had a table next to the “ticket window,” which looks into the kitchen. Cocktails (including the Main Street Manhattan and the Canalside Cosmo) are listed on a “train bulletin” sign over the bar, and footrests at the bar are large chains that look like they came off a ship at the nearby Massachusetts Maritime Academy. So, Mahoney’s takes the prize for décor that connects with village history. But Mahoney’s also has a satisfying, plus-sized pub menu. We tried the Irish nachos (a huge pile of diced bliss potatoes, corned beef and jalapeños covered with mozzarella, sour cream and salsa) and buttermilk-fried cauliflower. That pair of apps didn’t really leave room for our entrées, a steak-tip salad and sun-dried tomato ravioli. More leftovers!

When our at-home menu includes fresh fish or shellfish, along with clam fritters and crab cakes, it’s great to have go-to fish market. Lucky for us, East Wind Lobster and Grille also is the village restaurant that’s closest to the water. On a sunny summer day, I reached nirvana in the form of a plate of fried clam strips, served with fries, coleslaw and a corn muffin, all washed down with a Buzzards Bay Brewing Golden Flounder. There’s plenty of seating out back, but better yet are the patio seats at the front, that offer a view of the boat traffic passing under the William Dalton Bridge, which connects Buzzards Bay to Wareham and the rest of the non-Cape Cod world beyond.

Photo 1: The decor at Mahoney's on Main, a former train station, embraces the village history

Photo 2: Whether looking for a plate of fried clam strips or a piece of fresh fish to bring home to the grill, East Wind Lobster & Fish Market is a one-stop shop.

Main Street also has a pair of pizza places. The Greek-themed pizzas are the highlight at Buzzards Bay House of Pizza, especially the Athenian, which comes with feta, banana peppers and broccoli (soft, not soggy). Down the other end of the street, Shore Fire Pizza’s wood-oven-fired, thin-crust pizzas include weekly specials, like the Angry Guido, that includes sliced soppressata, mozzarella, ricotta and hot cherry peppers.

Although not on Main Street in Buzzards Bay, nearby are seasonal favorites The Seafood Shanty and Barlow’s Clam Shack overlooking the canal.

Sometimes after a 14-mile round-trip ride on the Cape Cod Canal Bikeway or a kayaking venture from Queen Sewell Cove to Buttermilk Bay, I feel like I’ve earned the reward of a visit to Mic’s Main Scoop. Located next to Buzzards Bay Park’s playground, this ice cream shop is as family-friendly as it gets, complete with pup cups (a small scoop of vanilla ice cream topped with a dog biscuit). We humans dig the grapenut and butter pecan cones out of the three dozen or so options served up by owner Michaela “Mic” Michienzi and her staff. But it was when I took a close look at Mic’s logo that I knew I’d found the key to happiness in my new home village. It carries the slogan “Live salty, Stay sweet” and that’s an accurate description of the lifestyle we’re going for.

Bill O’Neill got his start in the communications industry delivering the Cape Cod Times on his bicycle. When he was a bit older, he was the lifestyle editor at the Times. As a freelancer, he writes about healthcare, pop music and other topics. He lives in Buzzards Bay and enjoys biking, hiking and kayaking.