Last Bite: Seafood Paella at Navillus
Timing is everything. Here we were, up against the deadline for the spring issue and we still had this page staring blankly at us. The clock was ticking when we got word of this new eatery in Orleans, Navillus, that had just opened. Now, I am a big proponent of allowing a restaurant to get up and running and established before committing pen to paper about it. That said, Cori and I stopped in to this beautiful, bright, and airy restaurant. One look at head chef Julio Lazzarini’s menu, and we knew we had a world of culinary options from which to choose. Originally, the Chilean style Ceviche jumped out. The thin slices of cod are citrus-cured and have a pebre sauce, the Chilean equivalent of pico de gallo without tomatoes, which imparts a nice nip of spice.
This was the plan until Cori ordered the Seafood Paella, of which I was given one bite. In that one bite, an array of flavors hit my taste buds.
The following day, Cori announced, “It’s got to be the paella as the Last Bite. I could have it all over again.” Lucky for us, pictures needed to be taken. Back to Orleans we went less than twenty-four hours after our first visit. This time, after taking photos, I got to split the dish with Cori… I’m definitely trending in the right direction! The seafood – chunks of swordfish, mussels, shrimp, and calamari – are combined with sweet peas, roasted tomatoes, Spanish chorizo, and saffron rice, and a saffron aioli is drizzled atop the arrangement. The smokiness of the chorizo takes the taste experience to another level. Yet, it’s the subtle and enigmatic flavor of saffron that ties everything together so well. Also in the mix: green olives. Now, my dislike for olives falls somewhere between “not a fan” and Tom Hanks spitting out his caviar in “Big”. That said, the olives work beautifully in concert with all the other ingredients to make this paella truly special. Your fork is in constant motion as you stir all the elements together, which get better with each successive bite as the flavors merge more and more.
We had a chance to chat with co-owners Sean Sullivan (“Navillus” is Sullivan spelled backwards) and Sam O’Connor. These two Cape Codders transformed the former Guapo’s into a contemporary yet comfortable space featuring an inventively approachable menu and a relaxed experience, whether you’re out for a casual dinner, a special occasion, or simply meeting friends to grab a bite and watch a game at the spacious bar. We also had an opportunity to talk with the creator of the paella and all the dishes you’ll find at Navillus, Lazzarini. A native of Puerto Rico, Lazzarini comes to the Cape by way of Miami, West Palm Beach, and Providence, Rhode Island, among other stops. His creativity has also been on display at a residence at the James Beard House in New York City, and numerous appearances on national television. Asked how long he’s been preparing this enchanting dish, he responds with a laugh, “So long, I forget.” All those years of producing the paella have really refined it to a dish that shouldn’t be missed.
After enjoying the Seafood Paella, you leave Navillus with the most wonderful flavors still dancing on your palate. Theoretically, the leftovers would travel well, and make for a tasty snack after a night of further coalescing of flavors. This is assuming you don’t polish the paella off in one sitting – pausing is no easy feat with this dish. I can’t wait for our next visit. I’m getting my own.
Navillus Bar & Grill
136 Route 6A, Orleans
navilluscapecod.com
