Del Mar Bar & Bistro: It’s a Family Affair
One of the first calls Maria Pollio made when John Zartarian appointed her head chef at his new establishment, Del Mar Bar & Bistro in Chatham, was to her childhood home in East Haven, Connecticut. She needed help and she was hopeful that her identical twin brothers, Adam and Andrew, would respond to her pleas. The industry-inexperienced twins, nine years her junior, were willing to migrate to Cape Cod and pitch in and learn the ropes. Sixteen years later, the family affair continues at Del Mar as the three siblings lead the team into nightly service.
The restaurant industry has always been part of John Zartarian’s DNA. A third-generation restaurateur, his parents were the successful couple behind the iconic Paddock at the Hyannis west-end rotary for forty-four years. The Paddock provided Zartarian a training ground for his future industry forays. “At an early age I did the jobs no one else wanted to do. I grew up in the kitchen but also ventured a bit into the front.” After high school, he left Cape Cod to explore other opportunities and headed west.
Zartarian attended college in Colorado, eventually earning a Master’s in finance and real estate. He dabbled in consulting before returning to Cape Cod having realized, “the grass isn’t always greener, at least from my perspective,” and that his true passion was exactly where he had roots. “I always knew I wanted to have my own business and felt the lure of the restaurant industry calling. I realized I loved everything about it and that’s where I knew I was meant to be.” He was part of the family-owned 225-seat Aqua Grille overlooking the Sandwich marina for a decade before the opportunity to purchase the former Roo Bar in Chatham appeared on his radar.
Chef Maria Pollio came with the building. Her summer stints in Chatham had turned into a year-round residency when she met the man who later became her husband. Her first full summer living on Cape, she accepted a hosting gig at Roo Bar, eventually moving into other positions including food runner, server and bartender. In the off-season, looking to boost her hours, she requested training as a cook. “I never had food like we were serving here. I was never classically trained; however, I grew up in a home where we knew our way around a kitchen. I am one of five children and dining out was reserved for only the most special of occasions. My dad was an avid fisherman and gardener. My mother would take what my dad had caught and grown and turn it into something truly special. She is an amazing scratch cook. We didn’t have a lot money-wise, but we ate well.” Pollio supplemented all her in-house culinary lessons by diving into YouTube cooking videos, magazine articles, and food inspiration acquired from her travels. She discovered she had a natural knack with flavors and was not afraid to experiment.
Four years into her Roo Bar employment, Pollio was stressed juggling front of the house management in addition to her cheffing responsibilities. “We were already a successful business,” states Pollio, “but we were all stretched way too thin. John Zartarian came in and was the savior we needed. He’s a natural born leader and we needed someone to really care about this place.” Zartarian recognized Pollio’s culinary talent and allowed her to focus her abilities on leading the kitchen. Zartarian renamed his new venture Del Mar not only for the literal meaning “of the sea” but also for the simplicity of “saying, spelling and remembering it.”
Located at 907 Main Street, outside the downtown core of Chatham, Del Mar’s exterior façade may trigger some nostalgic memories to New Englanders of a certain age. The cupola-topped brick exterior design hints at the history of the building’s first life as a Friendly’s restaurant, but a step inside will erase any memories of patty melts and sundaes.
For those who lament that Cape Cod is “desolate” in the off-season, a trip to Del Mar can vanquish those seasonal blues. The business operates year-round apart from a two-week closure in January for annual maintenance and staff vacations. Hours, beginning back in October, are Tuesday through Saturday, opening at 5 pm. Reservations can be made online through their website or by phone, and advance planning especially for weekends and high season dining is recommended. Bar seating is available for dining on first come, first serve basis. Make sure you add your name to the waitlist if seats are full.
A fall visit reveals a hum of bustling activity, and a lively musical playlist lends to the upbeat vibe. A fourteen-stooled bar is backed by high shelves displaying an exceptional selection of liquors and cordials. The main dining space can accommodate sixty-five, and a three-season heated enclosed patio, strung with fairy lights, doubles the capacity for much of the year. Striking glass custom lamp shades and bar sconces courtesy of Michael Magyar (The Glass Studio, East Sandwich) lend a warm glow to the dining room. Odin K. Smith, a Brewster grade-school classmate of Zartarian’s, is the artist behind the Cape-inspired land and seascapes adorning the walls. The narrow open kitchen runs the length of the room beyond the bar area. Whimsical metal squids sculpted by Steve Swain (Frying Pan Gallery, Wellfleet), suspend from above the open pass.
Superwoman Maria Pollio and her team work efficiently to handle tonight’s fall crowd. In season, this six-person crew may send out three hundred covers during a four-and-a-half-hour dinner shift. The kitchen line is a well-coordinated team that knows to maneuver within their designated boundaries. Pollio, petite and sporting a blonde cropped haircut reminiscent of a young Annie Lennox, is unflappable with a full twelve burner cooktop flaming before her. On any given night, the sauté station cranks out approximately one third of the evening’s entrees for which Pollio is solely responsible. Almost another third of the plates are handled by brother Andrew, resident grill master. Pollio describes Andrew as the even-keeled creative sibling with an artistic flair for plating. Twin brother Adam’s culinary versatility allows him to rotate wherever needed and he covers Pollio’s position in her absence. She credits Adam as being the best at training new staffers at any of the back of the house stations. Pollio says, “He is patient but has exceptionally high standards and makes a great manager. I tend to be more of a people-pleaser. I have complete faith in both of my brothers that they can step in and run the show effectively when I am not here. They have surpassed any expectations I have ever had for them and at this point we equally share the kitchen responsibilities. Honestly, sometimes I feel like I work for them!”
Cocktails from the bar bring the first of many oohs and aahs during our visit. A standout is the Saturn: a luscious blend of gin, passion fruit liquor, falernum (a tropical Caribbean flavored sweetener), orgeat syrup and fresh lemon juice. The In-Fashion offers Del Mar’s twist on a classic old-fashioned with the addition of Solerno Blood Orange Liquor and Bulleit Bourbon. The crowd-pleasing Spicy Peach Margarita receives a kick from Tanteo tequila infused with fresh jalapeño peppers.
With help from our knowledgeable and attentive server Eva Johnson, we select wine for our group from a list curated by Zartarian. His goal is to present an interesting selection of wines by the glass and the bottle that are financially approachable. We choose an affordable Gruner Veltliner, a citrusy white Austrian, and a fruity red French Bordeaux blend to complement our entrées.
The dinner menu at Del Mar offers tantalizing options for every palate. Pollio explains that the “regular” menu remains mostly the same, with some minor tweaks throughout the year. “Our loyal clientele knows what they like and there would be an uproar if any of these items disappear. The duck, chicken, bolognese and filet are just so immensely popular.” In deference to those seeking a little more variety and those of more adventurous palates, they also offer a generous blackboard menu with seasonally-changing specials. This allows Pollio to adjust according to seasonal volume as well. “I need to be conscious of what we can handle during our busy times. Something like halibut is a great dish for allowing cooking of multiple portions in a single pan and is a perfect entrée for high volume months. “This time of the year allows us to slow down and place more of a focus on comfort foods like seafood stews and braises. I also like to work in some more affordable choices in the off-season like short ribs and lamb shanks.”
Pollio is loyal to her vendors: Cape Clam and Seafood, Chatham Fish & Lobster, Ring Brothers and Sid Wainer & Son, all of whom provide her with consistent high-quality products. “We keep it close. We don’t try to reinvent the wheel here. We start with stellar ingredients and don’t play with them too much.” They also support smaller local businesses like The Chatham Cheese Company and Sea Hound pies, who deliver a daily fresh-baked product like their apple crumb pie. Zartarian’s brother, a salesman for T.F. Kinnealey Company, supplies premium cuts of meat. Though not considered a steakhouse, Del Mar sells a large quantity of filets and chops.
Although doors don’t open until 5pm service, the day at Del Mar’s scratch kitchen begins much earlier. Prep cook Gifford Douglas clocks in at 6am when he begins the task of replenishing the stock from the walk-in that was depleted the night before. The popular bolognese is made daily and the labor-intensive port wine demi-glace, a flavorful sauce for the filets, are common items on Douglas’ list.
Our meal starts with a delectable selection of native seafood-based appetizers that we share tapas-style: briny and lemony wood-fired oysters; a trio of beautifully-seared Wellfleet scallops nestled in an apple, butternut hash; a Spicy Chatham Lobster Tostada accented with fresh corn, tomato salsa, jalapeños drizzled with a chipotle aioli (almost too beautiful to eat); and Portuguese Steamed Littlenecks with linguiça bathed in an addictive garlicky white wine sauce. Also of note is the complimentary bread service featuring hearty slices of a country Pain d’Avignon loaf.
Large plates provide innovative choices from land and sea and everything in between. The pan-roasted halibut, a personal favorite of Pollio’s and ours, comes crowned with a miso butter-poached lobster claw atop fragrant basmati rice complemented by a fennel, bok choy, apple and mango salad… a pure mouthful of joy. An equally eye-catching and sumptuous dish is the sushi-grade seared blackened tuna partnered with a vegetable lo mein noodle salad tossed in a citrus plum vinaigrette.
A roasted free-range half duckling has been a mainstay on Del Mar’s menu since inception. The combination of golden crunchy maple-glazed skin surrounding the succulent and savory duck meat receives unanimous approval from our group. I call dibs on the final sweet and smoky bourbon-soaked cherry.
The grilled center-cut chop delivers a smoked whiskey sugarrubbed fourteen-ounce behemoth of tender pork perfection. The chop, partnered with creamy celeriac purée, sautéed greens, dried cranberries and an apple-cider demi-glace, imparts fall flavors in each forkful. Pollio explains. “Often the protein will stay the same but we will try to incorporate changes in the set up (restaurant speak for sides and garnishes) depending on what is seasonal and what we have to work with. Sometimes the best specials come out of a ‘mistake’ delivery when we receive something we did not even order.”
A pizza is always a solid choice at Del Mar if in the mood for more casual fare. A wood-fired Margarita pie arrives with a thin, beautifully charred crust topped with a sauce reminiscent of New Haven’s legendary pizzas, a nod to Pollio’s Connecticut roots. San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and chiffonade basil complete this classic pizza done right. Other tempting varieties include fig and prosciutto, hot Italian sausage and white clam and bacon pie.
Whenever possible, save room for dessert. Mary Beth Spencer creates a variety of “homey” confections that deliver a sweet ending to the evening. We collectively indulge in a triple layer moist and nutty carrot cake with a decadent cream cheese frosting and Bananas Foster, a buttery Myers’s Rum sauce loaded with creamy bananas served over vanilla bean ice cream. We are too full to squeeze in one of the bar’s award-winning espresso martinis but vow to do so on our return trip.
Zartarian is ever present during our visit to Del Mar, be it delivering an entrée, checking on staff or touching tables. Zartarian arrives each morning to do the books and to assess if any maintenance or other issues require attention. After a midday break, he returns for the start of service, staying until the last plate leaves the line. Nights off are covered by manager Joe Buchanan, a staffer since his teenage start as a pizza cook. Pollio jokes, “Once you get hired here, you just don’t leave. The longevity of our staff speaks volumes. We really are one big family. John is the greatest boss ever and a hands-on owner. The staff just want to make him happy. He has allowed us to establish over the years a healthy work-life balance. Having Sunday and holidays off has allowed us both important family time.” With her siblings at her side ready to step in, Pollio has been able to reduce her schedule. She stays late on work nights, hyper-focused on making sure orders are right and prep lists are complete. Pollio trusts in her team and does not micromanage them but makes sure they are all positioned to succeed in their roles. She welcomes her team’s input when creating specials and extends to others the freedom to find the joy in the job she herself has found at Del Mar.
Zartarian acknowledges that he has been able to deliver exactly what he wanted to achieve when he first opened. “Maria’s food is just unbelievable and authentic. Everything she presented to me from day one was amazing, and I knew if I could back her cuisine with consistent service and interesting wines and drinks, we could have something special.” Pollio adds, “He came in and this place just really took off. It grew into this beast of a business, and it continues to do so today.”
Make my winter goals yours and take advantage of the smaller crowds and work your way through the menu at Del Mar Bar & Bistro. You can thank me later!
Vanessa Stewart has spent almost four decades in the restaurant business, where she’s worked almost every job imaginable. Her forte is as a “libationist”, and nothing excites her more than not only a restaurant, but a bar that incorporates the freshest of ingredients.
Del Mar Bar & Bistro
907 Main Street, Chatham
delmarbistro.com
