Kung Fu Dumplings, a well-loved staple in Provincetown, has expanded to a second, more spacious location on Highland Road in Truro, bringing traditional Chinese fare to a part of the Cape more often associated with clam shacks and fried seafood platters.
A bold “OPEN” flag waves outside the newly-opened restaurant, where red and black décor and ample indoor seating offer a welcome contrast to its original outpost tucked behind Commercial Street. Owners Tong Chuang and Feng Lin, a husband-and-wife team, opened this North Truro location at the end of June – more than a decade after launching their dumpling venture in Provincetown.
The restaurant specializes in homemade traditional Chinese dumplings, with the number-one crowd favorite being the pork dumpling. The menu also offers steamed and fried beef, chicken, shrimp, tofu, and dim sum dumpling options, wonton soup, lo mein, and sesame chicken.
It was a long journey getting here.
Chuang and Lin grew up in China, with Chuang from northeast China, Liaoning Province, and Lin from Fujian Province in southeast China. But it wasn’t until they were both in Ireland that they first met. When Chuang was 20 years old, his father encouraged him to go out and find something to do with his life. So, he obtained his visa despite not knowing any English.
At the time, he wasn’t interested in cooking but knew he had to survive. First he cleaned dishes, then he made coffee. Slowly, he learned from the chefs in Ireland how to make Italian specialities like pizza and pasta.
During his 12 years living in Dublin, he met his wife, who also worked in the industry. “It changed my life,” said Chuang. “She changed my life.”
But, after over a decade in the country, they wanted to try somewhere else. Chuang’s brother already lived in America, and he pushed them to move here, touting “freedom” and “opportunity” and saying change is good. Chuang and his wife got visas and moved to Chinatown in Queens, New York. Chuang got a job in a Japanese restaurant and then a northeast Chinese restaurant.
Previously, he always worked back of the house, but he decided to try something new and worked as a waiter. It was a decision that changed his life forever. While working, he met his future restaurant partner, Stephen Rome. The two hit it off because Rome lived eight years in China before returning to his hometown of Provincetown. The two could speak fluently in Chinese.
One month later, Rome returned, this time with a proposition. He wanted to bring authentic Chinese food to Provincetown and believed Chuang and his wife were the right partners. Chuang drove to Provincetown to see the location, but it was in the middle of February, and he was concerned because no one was around. But, Rome said, ‘it was busy’. It was busy for the middle of February. Chuang decided to believe him.
Chuang remembers preparing dumplings in Rome’s house and giving locals a taste. He was surprised when people said they loved them.
The doors opened a little after July 4, 2014. And it was packed, Chuang said.
Rome sold his share of the company to Chuang and Lin before he unexpectedly passed away in 2021 at the age of 37. “He was too young,” said Chuang, remembering his partner. “This is life. You never know what’s going on tomorrow.”
Chuang hopes to build on his legacy by continuing to build on the business Rome helped start, hoping to make him proud. Chuang said he wanted to expand, especially after being here for 12 years.
Then, the former Chequessett Chocolate store went up for sale. “This is the one,” said Chuang. “We’re lucky we found this one.” The new location offers a bigger commercial kitchen and extra space. It can support both locations.
The food from his country, specifically his hometown, inspires him. He remembers the food his grandmother made for him. Chuang explained that dumplings hold a special memory in Chinese hearts. When he was growing up, many people were still poor, and families would save up to buy ingredients to make the dumplings traditionally served during the Chinese New Year.
When he opened the restaurant, he noticed a lot of American Chinese food everywhere. He wanted to do something different. “I want to make Chinese-Chinese food,” said Chuang. But he worried that Americans might not like Chinese food, and that he might have to tweak some flavors. But he was surprised that so many people wanted to try something special. He still caters to the older crowd, with some expanded menu options that are more American-Chinese food. The restaurants employ four full-time staff members, up to around 10 in the summer.
Life continues to be a roller coaster for Chuang. The couple recently welcomed a new life into the world when Lin gave birth to their daughter, Christina, on Christmas Day last year. “New restaurant, new baby,” exclaimed Chuang.
Kung Fu Dumplings
8 Highland Road, Truro
293 Commercial Street, Provincetown
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