Charlotte Formichella always knew that her and husband Mick’s shared dream of opening LUNE was never an “if” but a “when.” During their month-long honeymoon road trip in the fall of 2023, Charlotte insisted that Mick stop at an estate sale in Santa Fe, New Mexico. There, she spotted a giant rendition of Picasso’s iconic painting, Girl Before a Mirror. Mick notes, “We were moving back to Cape Cod from Portland, Oregon, driving a Sprinter van crammed with all our earthly possessions. We had no house, no storage space and certainly no restaurant in which to display art, but Charlotte was adamant we buy it and haul it back.” Less than two years later, the painting found its home at LUNE in Dennis Port, where it fits perfectly in the space where it hangs, a testament to the confidence this young duo had in making restaurant ownership a reality.
Charlotte Formichella can trace her Cape lineage back thirteen generations in the town of Harwich. She set her sights early on for a career in the hospitality field. Her first venture into the working world came as a young teenager at the Wychmere Harbor Club, which further ignited her industry obsession. She came home and announced, much to her mother’s dismay, her desire to become a bartender. She graduated high school a year early, studied hospitality at community college, but realized her education was out in the work force, not in the classroom.
Mick Formichella’s family were part of the annual influx of Cape Cod summer vacationers. The son of two CIA (Culinary Institute of America) graduates, Mick grew up in a home where food took center stage and grandiose dinner parties were a way of life. His dad was an executive chef, and his mom owned a restaurant and catering business in their Summit, New Jersey hometown. In his teens, they moved to the suburbs outside Chicago, where he gained some early restaurant exposure as a line cook and baker before moving to work in the city itself. Poised to enter Kendall College for culinary arts, he withdrew his enrollment after landing a spot as a commis chef (assistant chef) in a Michelin-starred restaurant. Mick rightly believed the hands-on apprentice position would be a beneficial way to learn and grow in his culinary journey without the hefty price tag of college.
In 2017, wanting a change of pace, he headed to Cape Cod, where his parents had recently retired, to work for the summer season. He got a job as sous chef at Ceraldi in Wellfleet, and that summer met and began dating Charlotte, who was bartending at the Ocean House in Dennis Port. One summer turned into two. “Ceraldi,” states Mick, “is where I saw the possibility of sustaining a tasting menu on the Cape. Though our styles of cuisine differ, owner Michael Ceraldi taught me to embrace the philosophy of using only local ingredients with the emphasis on seasonality. His restaurant taught me that there was an audience on Cape Cod for this format.”
In the fall of 2019, sharing a commitment to each other and dedicated to progressing their careers further, Mick and Charlotte packed their bags and headed to the vibrant restaurant scene in Portland, Oregon. Charlotte states, “I didn’t know a soul there and Mick had visited once, but we were both dedicated to working hard and reaching our goals.” Mick interjects, laughing, “more like we were naïve!” In Portland, Mick found his way into multiple kitchens of talented chefs, receiving valuable mentorships and inspiration along the way, while Charlotte continued building her resume with bar and beverage management positions. Both were unprepared for the impact that Covid would have on their lives. Overnight, Mick went from cooking in a busy, acclaimed, award-winning restaurant to packing take-out into Styrofoam containers. Mick’s family friend had opened a tree farm outside of Portland, and the duo began hosting small outdoor pop-up dinners there. “There was no kitchen, just me cooking courses over a live fire and Charlotte pouring wine and washing dishes in buckets.” Mick dubbed these ventures, “our first version of LUNE [French for moon].” The moon held a special significance to the couple, as the early months of their relationship usually unfolded late at night when they would meet up post-shift “under the moon.”
When the world began to open back up, the couple accepted a unique opportunity to co-manage at sister restaurants owned by a successful restaurant group: Mick as chef and Charlotte overseeing front of the house operations. The idea that they could run their own place really began to blossom. An outside investor, believing in their talents, presented them with an opportunity to open a restaurant. After weighing the pros and cons, they realized they wanted to be self-sufficient and work on their own terms. They decided to move back to Cape Cod and set the process in motion.
In February 2023, they began hosting pop-up dinners on Tuesday nights at the Borsari Gallery in Dennis. Mick notes, “it was the cheapest night available for us to do this as a low-risk venture and the deal was we had to bring in all our own stuff…we had milk crates full of dishes, silverware, linens, and wine. We had to get “day of” alcohol and food licenses just to operate. We had one server and family members pitched in.” In the spring, they negotiated a deal with local restaurateur Jason Montigel, owner of Clean Slate Eatery in West Dennis, to run operations out of his space during the evening hours after Montigel’s taco business closed for the day. “We would take over the building at 4pm and flip it into a fine dining space to run LUNE with early service starting at 5pm,” reflects Mick. “We did this for five months. My friend John from Portland was my first sous, and we would sometimes work until 2 or 3am prepping for the next evening’s service.”
In September of 2023, Charlotte and Mick married under the harvest moon and continued the ongoing search for a permanent home for LUNE. Charlotte kept circling back to the vacant property at 587 Main Street. The 1920s building had once housed a gas station, ice cream shop and bakery. The Formichellas toured the building and saw potential for a transformation, and in February 2024 they took ownership.
Upgrades to the structure, which had been empty for five years, included new plumbing and electrical, as well as some accessibility modifications. Mick, along with his contractor brother, reconfigured the intimate space for maximum efficiency. The updated design boasts an open kitchen with a large, mounted hood bordered by countertop seating. A dining room banquette provides both seating and storage. The existing black and white graphic floors were stripped and polished. The result is a chic space with a charming Parisian flair, complete with tranquil green walls, wood counters, pots of greenery and an eclectic mix of artwork. A hutch displays glassware, vintage plates and cutlery sourced from nearby antique markets. After a grueling three months, renovations were complete, and LUNE, which Charlotte describes as, “an extension of ourselves and our home,” opened in May 2024.
A mere eight months later, they received the jaw-dropping news that LUNE had received a coveted James Beard nomination for “Best New Restaurant in the Northeast” – the first Cape Cod restaurant to achieve this honor. The nomination has thrust LUNE into the limelight and has given the Formichellas and their equally-dedicated team validation for all their hard work. “Honestly, we are going to continue doing things with the mindset we have always had,” affirms Mick. “We have always set elevated levels of expectations for ourselves and our staff. This accolade just lets us know we are on the right path.” The couple knew they were ineligible to win since LUNE’s seasonal license mandates closing for a few months and they were not physically open when the final judging took place. The Beard nomination, along with all the social media buzz LUNE had already been generating, caused seatings for the first two months to be booked out prior to their reopening for the season in April. Reservations are available online through Open Table sixty days in advance.
Originally, Mick’s concept was strictly for the tasting menu format (Thursday, Friday, Saturday; seatings at 5:30 and 8pm) he had implemented at Borsari and Clean Slate. Yet, during construction he pivoted and added two à la carte evenings (Wednesdays and Sundays). “We wanted to offer our guests the opportunity to come and try our cuisine without the commitment and price point of our tasting menu,” states Charlotte. “It takes a certain amount of trust when there is no menu posted in advance,” Mick amends. “The menu is a little less serious on bistro nights and I often use them to test out recipes for the upcoming week’s tasting menu.” Both menus change weekly, and the dual menus allow the restaurant to put an emphasis on sustainability. “Charlotte and I have just seen tremendous amounts of food waste in the business and here the focus is on minimizing that. We aim for full utilization of all our products. For example, I will break down an entire fish and make stock, and any odds and ends I will salt for salt cod.”
The focus at LUNE is on the most seasonally-available products supplied by local purveyors. Mick supports many area farms including Bartlett’s (West Barnstable), Cape Abilities (Dennis) and Chatham Bars Inn Farm (Brewster). They also supplement with produce from their own kitchen garden the couple cultivates on Charlotte’s family farm in Harwich Port. Cape Fish & Lobster (Hyannis) and Big Rock Oyster Company (Harwich) provide most of the fresh local seafood and shellfish incorporated onto their menus.
Being late to the party, we were lucky to snag an early Sunday evening reservation to partake in the à la carte offerings at LUNE. The damp chill of the rainy spring evening dissipates as we enter the intimate space and receive a warm welcome by the Formichellas and members of their hospitable staff. LUNE is a place where not just the food, but the knowledge and presentation of the whole team, elevates the dining experience. Our party has reserved the kitchen bar where we receive a front-row view to all of the fantastic sights and smells emanating from the open kitchen.
Charlotte has curated a beverage menu that includes beer, wine, and intriguing nonalcoholic as well as low ABV beverages. Both Charlotte and general manager Isadora “Isa” Cursino are on point with their wine recommendations, each having recently passed their level-one sommelier certification. After discussing our preferences, we opt for a Casa Di Monte “Biancospino” and an Italian Le Marie Nebbiolo, both of which Isa assures us will pair nicely and not overpower our food selections.
In addition to Isa, the attentive service team this evening includes Maeve Terrio, known for her keen eye for details, and Jodi Spalt, who holds the distinction of being the biggest fan of Mick’s cooking. Kefilwe Hill commandeers the dish area and states, “there is no house without the back of the house.” Charlotte introduces the team at the beginning of each tasting service and Hill’s introduction usually sparks a hearty round of applause.
Chef Brian McGrath approaches with cups of their spring consommé to “warm our palates.” McGrath reached out to the Formichellas after his brother dined at LUNE during their residency at Clean Slate. After conversing with the couple long distance, they agreed he was ideal for the position of sous chef of LUNE. McGrath made the big move from Chicago and brings an unrivaled positivity and enthusiasm to the team as both a problem-solver and Mick’s go-to person.
One sip of consommé and I know we are in for something special. Chef Mick begins each of his tasting menu nights with a house-made broth, an unexpected treat on this dreary night. Toasted barley is steeped with green garlic, wild onions, ramps, and kombu (Japanese seaweed). Evidence of LUNE’s philosophy of “Food is Love” is already resonating.
With some guidance from Chef Brian and server Isa, we order an array of small plates and one of each of the mains. Isa explains that plate sharing is encouraged, and each dish will arrive tableside as completed. Proof that this kitchen does not take shortcuts, we start with Mick’s “labor of love,” his heavenly baked-daily sourdough bread, paired with a decadent house-made duxelles butter. Honestly, if my meal had ended here with just this nuanced broth and this superior crusty sourdough, I would have certainly gone home a happy camper. But, thankfully, a parade of small plates ensues, each displaying Chef Mick’s skill at imaginative flavor combinations using quality locally sourced ingredients.
We begin with roasted Wellfleet oysters nestled in a beautifully light foie gras mousse and pickled green garlic that somehow still allows the savory salinity of the oyster to shine through. The Scallop Cru delivers an herbaceous béarnaise aioli that pairs perfectly with the bright raw scallops and crispy endive. A quenelle of silky-smooth Chicken Liver Mousse (Charlotte’s favorite) is just one of the dishes that pays homage to classic French cuisine. Mick has been tweaking this recipe since his Portland days, and it has evolved into a specialty. The Boeuf Tartare delivers another love letter from Chef: luxurious, finely-diced beef enhanced with the flavors of confit shallots, mimolette and nasturtium capers. The tartare is crowned with a crispy buñuelo (fried dough fritter) that provides a nice contrast of textures to the savory meat.
Vegetable dishes receive the same TLC as meat and fish. We indulge in a slightly nutty, Short-Seasoned White Asparagus blanketed in an eggy sauce gribiche and an order of earthy Roasted Beets mixed with spicy crème fraiche/horseradish blend sprinkled with candied hazelnuts.
We move on to the mains. Plates are innovative but not intimidating. A meaty, mild Roasted Monkfish pairs nicely with a well-seasoned bordelaise sauce and sautéed Swiss chard. An order of Moules Mariniere is a bountiful bowl of fresh mussels simmered in a fragrant garlic, herb, wine, and Dijon sauce. The Parisian Gnocchi are fluffy, crispy, and lightly bathed in a creamy Parmesan fonduta accented with Swiss chard and roasted turnip. Another star, LUNE’s spin on duck frites: slices of the most evenly-cooked and succulent duck fanned atop a lush peppercorn sauce, paired with a side of pommes paillasson. These crispy, addictive potatoes were akin to tater tots on steroids. Sauces are also a standout at LUNE. Chef Mick preserves the quality and temperature of each by using Japanese thermoses to maintain consistency, especially important during an à la carte service.
Chef Ellen Newman, in-house pastry chef, landed at LUNE after attending a tasting dinner last summer. She brings a wealth of knowledge and a background working in acclaimed Manhattan kitchens. Mick says, “she is dedicated to the last bite at LUNE and dessert is never an afterthought here.” Tonight, she presents us with a creative quartet of sweet endings including a refreshing Meyer lemon sorbet and a surprisingly delectable white asparagus ice cream topped with buttery, almost nutty Ossetra Royal caviar. We dig into a brilliant “potato sundae” composed of potato peel infused into ice cream, hazelnuts, and caramelized potato sticks. Chef Newman shares, “it’s like dipping French fries into vanilla ice cream!” The playful finale is the classic Hoodsie Cup, a bistro menu staple, capped with sweet crispy cereal, fresh Chantilly, and caramel.
The bill arrives tucked inside a vintage copy of Julia Child’s French Chef Cookbook, along with homemade candies courtesy of Chef Newman. Fully satiated, we are still reluctant for the evening to end and plot a return for a tasting menu night, confident the cuisine will be creative and magical. The combination of unforgettable flavors coupled with the attentive, approachable staff has created a memorable and seamless dining experience.
The Formichellas hope that what they have created in Dennis Port will inspire others. “There are more people than seats in restaurants here. The more amazing places that open on Cape Cod, the more people will view it as a dining destination,” declares Mick. “What nature provides for us on the Cape – with all this beautiful produce and pristine seafood – is incredible.
It is all in how we choose to use what’s been provided us,” adds Charlotte. “Aside from the food, the most important part of what we do at LUNE is we give people jobs, and we are growing a community. This is just the beginning of our journey. We are in it for the long haul.”
LUNE
587 Main Street (MA-28), Dennis Port
LuneCapeCod.com
Vanessa Stewart has spent almost four decades in the restaurant business, where she’s worked almost every job imaginable. Her forte is as a “libationist”, and nothing excites her more than not only a restaurant, but a bar that incorporates the freshest of ingredients.
