Story by Richard Catania
Is there a wine that captures the spirit of the holidays better than Champagne? It is known as the wine of celebration, festivity and romance, and it is amazingly food-friendly and cleansing. What worthy occasion is complete without it?
Though many sparkling wines are referred to as Champagne, only those produced in the Champagne region of France can truly be referred to by that name. There exists over 250 miles of underground ancient chalk tunnels in Champagne which hold millions of bottles. Before the now famous Benedictine Monk, Dom Perignon, perfected Champagne, it was just another still wine. The second fermentation in the bottle transformed it into a more special, delicate and romantic beverage. After his creation, he allegedly quipped, “Come quickly, I am drinking the stars!”
There are many different styles, to be sure, but the oldest and most traditional is a blend of the three grapes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. When all the elements of a great season come together, a vintage is declared. Because Champagne resides in a northerly climate, this only occurs about 50% of the time. A great vintage is one with a more-than-usual amount of layered complexity.
Every Champagne House produces a range of wines, usually consisting of a non-vintage brut (representing the best value), a vintage brut, and a Tête de Cuvée. At each level, the winemaker strives to produce a sense of consistency and house style year after year. The luxury Champagnes or Tête de Cuvées are very expensive, limited, and generally reserved for special occasions. Moët’s Tête is Dom Perignon. The house of Roederer has its famous Cristal, and my personal favorite, Krug, sits at the top of the mountain, though there are many other great ones.
There are two other distinct and memorable styles produced. Rosé Champagne is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, and produces a full-bodied rich and sturdy wine with a beautiful salmon color. Vintage rosé is quite expensive and can be a great match with holiday fare such as roast turkey or prime rib. Blanc de Blanc is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes, and is quite delicate and floral, though no less noble in the hands of producers such as Taittinger, Drappier, or Ruinart.
There is a recent trend known as “Grower Champagne”. Grower or artisan Champagnes are sparkling wines made in the Champagne province of France and are grown, harvested, produced and bottled by the very same owners of the smaller, boutique vineyards and are known as Récoltant Manipulant or RM. The grapes are sourced from their own vineyards (as opposed to the large producers who purchase a percentage of their grapes and juice from other vineyard owners). Ask your local wine merchant if they carry any, as they are excellent. Look for the RM on the bottle.
If you enjoy the effervescence of sparkling wine without the price tag, there are alternatives. Italian Prosecco is quite prevalent, especially with the popularity of the Aperol Spritz. There’s also sparkling Vouvray from the Loire Valley, and Crémant from the Bourgogne region. Spain, Italy, Germany and Australia all make quality sparkling wine as well.
The US is making arguably the best alternative to authentic Champagne. Made using the same “Méthode Champenoise”, there are some very fine wines made in California. Some of the finest are from Schramsberg, Domaine Chandon, Roederer Estate, and Piper Sonoma, to name a few. Do not overlook the delicious sparklers from the Finger Lakes in upstate NewYork.
I would be remiss if I did not mention two wonderful examples right here on Cape Cod. Cape Cod Winery in Falmouth makes a clean, refreshing and dry sparkling Chardonnay that can be found on their website. Or stop by to enjoy their delicious Champagne cocktail, made with fresh cranberries and rosemary!
Truro Vineyards makes a surprisingly good sparkler, aptly named Bushels and Bubbles, which is perfect to go with all those holiday oysters.
As for the service of Champagne, it is well suited to be served right through the entire meal. Do not shake or over chill it, and always point the bottle away from anyone, including yourself, once the cage is removed. The force of a cork can easily damage an unsuspecting eye. Also, I do not recommend the freezer for chilling, as an extra ten minutes will explode your expensive bubbly all over your favorite gelato.
So, this year, raise a glass with friends and family for Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s. Cheers!
Richard Catania has been a restaurateur and wine buyer for 35 years. He has also taught wine appreciation classes at Cape Cod Community College and organized a food and wine festival on Cape Cod.
Cape Cod Package Store
capecodpackagestore.com
Cape Cod Winery
capecodwinery.com
Truro Vineyards + South Hollow Spirits
trurovineyardsofcapecod.com
